¿Qué Onda Güero? 5.12b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 125 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b/c [details] |
| FA: | Dustin Stephens & Mark Grundon |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Dustin Stephens on Jan 6, 2013 |
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Description On the steepest section of the Mota Wall is this sustained and technical line. 5.9 slab leads to an interesting tufa-drip section with some dual-arete slapping and very poor feet, followed by continuous technical moves on sidepulls, underclings, and a few perfect pockets leading to the anchor.
Location Just left of La Vaca's 11+ upper section. Start on La Vaca's 5.9 slab and then continue straight up toward a black streak rather than trending right. Continue through 8 bolts of independent climbing then finish to the right and descend from La Vaca's anchor (upgraded to stainless steel in December 2012). Rap or lower to the first anchor, pull your rope, and rap or lower again. An 80-meter rope can sort-of-almost make it to the ground safely from the upper anchor if you move a bit uphill, so tie a knot in the end of the rope if going for the lower off from the top anchor
Protection 16 bolts
| Comments on ¿Qué Onda Güero? |
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By Paul Irby From: moab, ut Feb 25, 2013
| nice job guys. about time someone climbed this sweet looking line. it's hard to believe la vaca went up over twenty years ago. i must be getting old! |
By Dustin Stephens Feb 28, 2013
| Thanks! The tufa took some scrubbin but the climbing turned out to be worth it. Did you put up La Vaca? Great route! |
By Paul Irby From: moab, ut Mar 3, 2013
| no, wasn't me. some dudes from indiana bolted that thing. I just happened to be there when it went up. That and cactus dancing were the first sport climbs on the mota wall which was formerly known as the Indiana Wall. |
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