Where the Love River meets the Taiwan Strait, a sandbar of an island juts up out of the water. On its northwest side, several hundred meters of imposing, overhanging limestone cliffs tower above the beach and a strip of jungle. The cliffs closer to the north have potential for dozens of absolutely epic 30+ meter climbs, if you could figure out how to rappel-bolt them and clear the jungle away enough to approach it. As you follow the trail southward, down the west side of the island, you come to a boardwalk that reaches a pier, a beach, and a tunnel. Hop the fence to sand below. There is one route here currently, which ascends the first clean wall. There is evidence of other climbing as well - lots of abandoned slings. There are also some top anchors nearby. The cliffs continue south, but eventually the beach disappears with or without a high tide. People often boulder in the overhang at the southern end of this cliff band. It is usually very windy here, and sand will get into all of your climbing gear, though its not so gusty as to affect your climbing. There are policemen that regulate the climbing from the comfort of the boardwalk ("no climbing without a rope" said one to my friend who was bouldering above the sand). Since its a very touristy island, and climbing has such a visible impact, any bolting effort would have to be cleared with the local authorities. No word on how or when the first bolts were put in. The single route that's here now is worth the trip alone, with some great bouldering, swimming, and food to make this a must-visit for any climber in Kaohsiung.
Take the ferry from Gushan Pier. It's a 10-minute walk from the Siziwan MRT Exit 1. It costs $15 (50 cents). Even if the lines are long, you won't have to wait more than 20 minutes. Once on the island, turn right (north) and stay on the path that goes around the edge of the island, below the lighthouse. You will soon see the imposing cliffs. Continue on the trail past these to the boardwalk. Hop the railing and down-climb to the beach. Pick your pleasure.
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Featured Route For Qijin Island
Xin Nian Kuai Le! 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Oceania : Taiwan : Qijin Island
Jump the railing down to the beach. This route climbs the first clean face you encounter. Belay next to a large boulder sticking out of the sand. The first bolt is really high (5m), but the climbing is very easy. The route quickly becomes overhanging. Leave the jugs of the crack and move right through big pockets and mantel into the easier middle section. Follow the bolts to the final overhang, move quickly through it, and finish by using the arete. Alternatively, stay on the face til the anchor...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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