There are a number of different ways to do this problem, and they are all pretty hard. Start sitting on the obvious crimp rail and head up and left. Some people use the small crimp in the horizontal crack, some people use a shallow undercling, and everybody uses the unusual pyramid shaped hold to eventually grab the jug on the arete and top out left. A great problem and one for which it may be beneficial to be a little shorter for a change.
Head left from the Umbrella boulder, then follow a faint trail up and right to a smallish cluster of boulders. On the right is the pit with the very clean overhanging face. This is the left-hand line.
Mike looking up at the straight forward but very f...
Mike on the hard opening deadpoint.
All goes swimmingly until right about here...
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 14, 2014
rating: V8 7B
For my height (5'11), first move is hard but the second move is the crux, I couldn't high step right foot on the crimp rail start and had to just pick low feet and controlled chuck to the hold after the pyramid. Played around with the undercling beta but couldn't make it feel good. Felt like there could be easier beta maybe but I couldn't do it. Amazing problem either way, not to be missed.
By Phil S
From: Bethlehem, NH
Aug 11, 2014
At 5' 8", matching my foot on the start hold wasn't too problematic. I could definitely see that move being really tough for taller folks though. What a fantastic set of moves.