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pyramid plan in how to climb 5.12.
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By Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 26, 2011
slim wrote:
in general, i think climbing anything less than 2 number grades below your current redpoint level is pretty much a waste of time.


Hmmm....let's agree to disagree. I do lots of climbing more than 2 grades below my max redpoint, and I don't consider it to be a waste of time. The vast majority of my ARC training is in this range, and I think it's very valuable, especially if you're interested in pumpy routes, on-sighting, and/or improving technique.

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By Joseph Stover
From Batesville, AR
Aug 26, 2011
If a pyramid plan is what motivates you, it will help. Motivation is key.

I've only redpointed a single 12a, but have hangdog TR'd a handful. And the only reason I redpointed that one was because it "called my name". It was just that one project that got into my head, that I knew I could do and became obsessed with. And it took more work than anything I've ever climbed... WAY MORE work. Still to this day I have never redpointed an 11d, although I've onsighted a single 11c, and redpointed several 5.11's.

How long you wait to go for a 5.12 redpoint depends on how much work you want it to be. If you wait until you consistently onsight mid 5.11, then you should be able to get a 12a pretty quick if you choose it carefully. If you do a pyramid of redpoints, where each one takes weeks of work, a 12 is going to take a LOT of work.

If you can redpoint most 11's you try in a days work and confidently onsight 5.10's, you're probably ready for a 5.12a project.

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By slim
Administrator
Aug 29, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
Mike Anderson wrote:
Hmmm....let's agree to disagree. I do lots of climbing more than 2 grades below my max redpoint, and I don't consider it to be a waste of time. The vast majority of my ARC training is in this range, and I think it's very valuable, especially if you're interested in pumpy routes, on-sighting, and/or improving technique.


alright, i gotta point out that 2 grades under your max redpoint is probably 12a, 12b? something heinous like that. that would be a pretty sick level to ARC at. however, for somebody who's max redpoint is in the 12 range, being able to ARC at the 5.10 level is pretty accurate. don't forget us little folks way back down on the exponential curve man!

i would kind of consider ARC'ing totally separately. you do bring up a good point, ARC'ing at more than 2 grades under redpoint max wouldn't be a waste if that was the ARC level they were currently at.

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By Eric Carlos
From Boulder, CO
Feb 4, 2012
Always wear a helmet.  I had it with me but chose ...
I am quite surprised that people reply on here that climbing lots of 11's, especially 11d's will not help you climb 12's and that 11's don't have moves as hard as 12's do. Obvouisly people that make comments like that have not climbed enough outside to really understand the dynamic of route grading. Take for instance Military Wall at the Red River Gorge, there is the "12 wall" containing 3 different 12b's and an 11b. Now I have sent all four climbs, and I would argue that the hardest move on the whole wall is the start of the 11b. Also I have been on upper 11's that had stout v3 cruxes, and upper 12's that had the hardest move as v2, yet the easiest move at v1 or 2 also and it was 90 ft of constant v2 moves.

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