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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Sooberb 
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Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Pygmy Pony 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Dave Goldstein
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 689
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 15, 2002
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Riding the Pony.
Photo: Roth.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a bit contrived and the best section is short, but very fun climbing and surprisingly good pro make this a worthy addition to the Pony Express area. This route follows the arete immediately to the right of Dandi-Line and about 8 feet left of Sister Morphine. Start on Dandi-Line and step right onto the large block at the base of the arete, about 40 feet above the ground. The next 20 feet is the crux, with balancey arete-palming and face moves. Place pro in an intermittent vertical crack to the right and horizontals higher up. Make sure you have a #1.5 Friend or equivalent to protect a short slot at mid-crux. Stay on or right of the arete all the way to the top -- this feels contrived in the second half, where it would be easy to step left into Dandi-Line, but the crux section (and best climbing) is totally independent.


Protection 

Standard Eldo rack with RPs, up to hand-size cams.



Photos of Pygmy Pony Slideshow Add Photo
Near the top. <br />Photo: Roth.
Near the top.
Photo: Roth.
Comments on Pygmy Pony Add Comment
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By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Nov 24, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I did this line yesterday not previously knowing anything about it. I think it's better than Dougald and Dave imply. Yeah, I guess it's a bit contrived, but it is big fun for when you're in the area, easily toproped off the SM anchors and a safe lead at the grade (though not for breaking into it). For maximum contrived fun, I recommend the unprotected 20' direct slab approach off the ground (between DL and SM), nice quality, some kinda .10.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Gear and difficulty are both a bit height-dependent. I'd give it 5.9+....

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Feb 18, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

The gear is tricky to place onsight, but it protects well. 9+ lead and maybe 9 on toprope.

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Mar 26, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

Not so sure about this one. Contrived and awkward climbing.