This route puts the "bad" back in "trad." The name, PWTHFRWDLGS, stands for "Post-War Turkish Homosexual Forms Relationship with Dead Lover's German Shepherd." It's a very long name for a very bad route.
This route takes the nasty cleft/chimney accessing the top of the right wall of the corridor, and starts directly from the hump. Climb the chimney feature, taking care of the small loose blocks which soon give way to big loose blocks which, in turn, give way to table-sized loose blocks; wedged death-cubes; hanging, scalloping death-flakes; lichen; dirt; and other variegated filth.
Near the top of the feature, climb right under the wedged death-cubes, then walk back left across the death cubes to access the teetering, pigeon-shit-covered summit via a horrendous step-across. You can rappel from a tree down and slightly south to reach the double-bolt anchors atop red faction. An old fixed-hex and Bashie rappel anchor partway down the wall indicates that someone else had made the mistake of climbing this route earlier.
Long slings, helmet, Hexes.
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Sep 10, 2010
After first discovering the narrows, I was hiking around scrambling a bit getting a feel for the rock, etc. I started up this thing in my tennies, got maybe about half way up and decided I wanted to go down....
Been taking a bunch of newbies out from CMC recently, mostly hitting No Name, but decided to go to the narrows and finish this thing this time.
Not a good idea to say the least, I was soloing up in rock shoes this time, trailing a rope for a TR with some cordelette and a single long runner. I was getting pretty excited when I got above my previous high point and realized how the rock seems to have deteriorated more than what was below. I tiptoed my way up under the death block arch and said I've had enough (the whole time just tailing the rope caused sustained falling rocks of medium size). I was stressing out about the anchor situation for a while, wondering what to do, etc., since it was getting a little late in the day.
After intense thought, I figured out a very minimalistic solution, I wrapped cord around a rock that was kinda situated on the back side of the floor (think canyon anchors), where the angle of pull would hopefully keep it wedged in place atop another rock that was anchored downward into the dirt. I really wasn't sure what to expect, so I tied it off and had my 2 newbs give it a really good pull to test it, no movement so I rapped sans harness carefully trying not to dislodge loose rock.
We decided to TR it despite how stupid it is, and the rope was so hard to pull that we had to abandon normal belay practices and have the 2 people on the ground really cranking on the rope. Luckily no rocks were dislodged above the climber as that could have been bad. Once we finished, I took the extention and left the cord with a single biner.
Not a good newbie experience, although not short on adventure that's for sure.
It's pretty F'in dangerous that's for sure, gear or not. Reminds me of a house of cards, the view out the back side from under the hanging death block arch is pretty cool though.
Definitely not bringing any newbies to the narrows again. There was a good-sized rock that came off and started a landslide shortly after he had just crossed the gully below it. I'm not sure that it was a natural, spontaneous release either.