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Hillbilly Routes
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5.6 dihedral T,TR 
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Barnyard TR 
Bio-Degradable T,TR 
Booze Pigs S,TR 
Cascadia T 
Curse of the Drill S 
Drink to Puke T,TR 
End of the Innocence S 
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 
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Manic Depression S 
No Time to Linger  TR 
Organic Matter TR 
Pagan Rituals S,TR 
Penitent Crack T,TR 
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 
PWB Arete S 
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 
Sex Weed T 
Strong Faith T,TR 
Sunset Ascent S 
Swiss Cheese S,TR 
Turkish Revenge S,TR 
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 
Zig-zag crack T,TR 
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 
Unsorted Routes:

PWB Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Historic
Page Views: 2,629
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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This is why the route is height dependant...

Description 

This route climbs up the well-defined arete on the opposite side of the canyon from Swiss Cheese. If you look closely, you will find the scatched-in initials "PWB" near the first bolt. You will also see a shallow hole from what looks to have been a long-ago aborted bolting attempt.

Anyway, climb up to the first bolt. A .75-1" cam might offer some protection getting to the bolt, but really the climbing isn't that bad. Then climb delicate, slabby, rock past four bolts to the tree. Top out on the ledge and clip the anchors.

PWB offers very cool, thought-provoking climbing up a beautiful feature on perfect rock. If it was longer it would certainly warrant more stars.

Protection 

Four bolts. Optional cam.


Photos of PWB Arete Slideshow Add Photo
John K on PWB arete
John K on PWB arete
Me starting PWB Arete  <br /> <br />Favorite Climb at the hallow!!!  <br />MUST DO!!
Me starting PWB Arete

Favorite Climb at the hall...
Nick leading, trying to decipher the crux.
Nick leading, trying to decipher the crux.
Stephen Hittner getting after it
Stephen Hittner getting after it
Matt Snider balances his way up PWB Arete.
Matt Snider balances his way up PWB Arete.
Nick debating on the best way to top out.
Nick debating on the best way to top out.
PWB Arete and its 3 clips.  Right now it raps from doubled webbing and quicklinks around the tree just right of center at the top of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: PWB Arete and its 3 clips. Right now it raps from...
Nicholas Bouley enjoying the last sequence of slopery balance
Nicholas Bouley enjoying the last sequence of slop...
Jason Rice smiling his way up this classic route
Jason Rice smiling his way up this classic route

Comments on PWB Arete Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 16, 2014
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jun 25, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agreed Jay, a true classic, if it was only longer. Solid 5.8 climbing up to a tenuous 5.9 move, that would feel like 5.10 if it wasn't so efficiently bolted.
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Jun 27, 2007

Where exactly is this route?
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jun 27, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pete,

The bolts went up just last week, so you probably didn't see it the last time you were there (unless it's been since last week), but it's right across the hollow from Swiss Cheese...
By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
Jun 29, 2007

This is a sweet route with nice bolt placement. I did my third lead on this and it was awesome. Nice work bolting all the new stuff Jay.
By Erik Olson
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a great route, I climbed it quite a few years ago with dlanglois on top rope (along with another route on that face that was pretty fun and just as dirty at the time). I am excited to give it a go on lead. Have to check it out the weekend after next.
By Erik Olson
Aug 5, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route on lead. Good bolt placement. The route on the right side of this wall we use to call "Barn Yard". The lower sections of Barnyard are climbable on TR, but on the top you would have to climb through the top of the yellow birch that has fallen over.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 10, 2008

Today I added top anchors to this route. It extends the climbing. Rather than reaching for the slings on the tree (slings are now gone) you top out on the ledge and clip the anchors. I also added a bolt at the top of the arete to protect the top-out moves.

Pay attention to the big boulder out right as you top out. I'm not sure if it is loose, but I wouldn't want to find out.
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Jul 11, 2008

Thanks for all the work at the hollow Jay! All the new routes are awesome. As a side note, did you hear about the Vertical Stronghold "reunion" that is going to be held at wheelers the weekend of aug 2,3, and 4 or so?
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome Jay! I can't wait to get on it.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 31, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Finally got on it. Great climb! Even Angie said "Too bad it doesn't go for another 50ft."
By Midwest mountaineer
From: Stevens Point, WI
Jul 6, 2009

A lot of fun! I like that there seems to be very little as you look at it, and then when you start climbing you realize that there is very little, but it is all solid. Climb this if you're in the area, a quick route that makes you feel good at the end.
By Daniel Max Christiansen
From: Green Bay, WI
Jun 7, 2010

Just lead this on my first trip here. Nice climb...classic, aesthetic moves using the arete and the bolts are placed at excellent rests. The crux move was easily pulled by my reach, but remained a 5.9 move for my 5'4'' climbing partner.
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jun 3, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fantastic route, probably climbed it a couple dozen times now. Great bolting, great climbing.
If you do climb this, please set up an anchor, DO NOT toprope through the rap rings. I've had to ask two groups now in the last two months to set up an anchor. So, make sure to check for wear on the rings before you hop down.
By Paul Leverich
Mar 16, 2014

I toprope soloed this summer of 1994 or 1995 no bolts at that time. I must have spent two hours cleaning off all the moss.