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Cliffs of Insanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
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Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
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Inconceivable T 
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jew fro an a boner T 
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Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Storming the Castle T 
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To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
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Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Puzzle Factory 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Season: Save this one for the warm days
Page Views: 2,790
Submitted By: Tank Evans on Mar 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Fissure grippin' on the rock cliffs of Ooooh-tah a...

Description 

An easier version of Ruby's Cafe. Changing corners on purple and green camalots.

Protection 

Mostly Purple and Green Camalots. Honestly #1.5 friends work best


Photos of Puzzle Factory Slideshow Add Photo
Brian Heppnerd
Brian Heppnerd

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 20, 2014
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 13, 2009

I think the FA is Scott Carson.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 22, 2009

OW to tough big fingers to nohands rest to enduro layback to finish.

Excellent route!

I agree that 1.5 friends work best. I took a bunch of 0.75 Camelots and they were tight prior to the rest but went in well for the finishing layback.
By Timmy! Tormey
From: Fakeville, USA
May 23, 2009

I would be hesitant to call this an easier version of Ruby's since it bears little resemblance to that route other than length. Cool route though.
By slim
Administrator
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

i imagine there are folks that would call this a hard version of ruby's. when you get on this route, gravity literally snaps your head back and you have to hold on for dear life.
By Scott Bennett
Apr 1, 2010

Purple camalots go in well almost all the way up the route. Bring 6-8 Purple Camalots and 2-3 Green.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Aug 25, 2011

And how does it compare to Ruby's outside they are both corners and at Indian Creek? Ruby's is tight fingers to perfect fingers to a roof and back to tight fingers. The other is wideness to rattley fingers (for me). Am I missing something?
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 26, 2011

I agree Chuck

Comparing Puzzle Factory to Ruby's is a bit of a stretch.
By chris Kalous
Apr 9, 2012

Scott's gear beta is spot on. Fat fingies would make this easier than Ruby's and the guys nickname is Tank, so...
By D-Storm
Apr 25, 2012

Purple Camalots are key. 1.5 Friends might be spot on, too, but I think less so than the .5 Camalots. The crack is mostly too tight for .75 Camalots or red Metolious TCUs and too big for orange TCUs.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 27, 2013

If you try and plug purples in all the way you could die...or nearly so like Dood who got photo'd ripping Blue cams out of Rubys...that's about where the resemblance ends. 1.5 friends work best just like yellow stuffs into Ruby best.
By Cristiano Pereira
Apr 20, 2014

Transitions between corners are the cruxes. A bit of a puzzle factory for sure. Hope to get a red point next time around.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
4 days ago

God created puzzle factory to prove that everybody has a bad size! Man this thing is fun!