Putterman's Poopshoot
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Dan Russell, Brian Shelton, Martin Douglas, Sonia Quiroga |
Page Views: | 653 total · 2/month |
Shared By: | Dan Russell on Sep 20, 2002 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Putterman's Poopshoot climbs to the 'south summit' of the Neighbor of Putterman. It is named for the sandy hole through which it climbs. The climbing is not spectacular, but it does gain a summit via a unique route.
The route actually starts on the big ledge at half-height on the end of the cliff (the west end, facing the House of Putterman formation). There are two ways to access this ledge. Either climb Putterman's Big Toe (5.9) or it's sister crack, Glob Gleab (C1), on the south face. Both of these routes are described on this website.
However you reach the ledge, walk back into the obvious cave (the cave is actually a huge chimney). About 20 feet back into the 'cave', the walls pinch off. The climb starts here.
Chimney through the slot (5.8+). This is the Poopshoot. After about 15 feet, the chimney opens up. If you're facing INTO the deep chimney, the wall on your right continues up to overhanging choss, while the wall on your left continues up to slabby choss. Slabby choss is easier to climb.
Turn around so you're facing OUT of the chimney system. Stem between the walls and work your way about 15-20 feet forward, so that you're standing directly above your belayer. Climb the somewhat loose wall (5.5) to a short slot (5.8) which reaches the plateau of the 'south summit'.
You can set up a belay in a crack in the summit surface, using 2-4 inch cams.
Descent: There is no summit anchor. Simul-rap, using a 60m rope.
The route actually starts on the big ledge at half-height on the end of the cliff (the west end, facing the House of Putterman formation). There are two ways to access this ledge. Either climb Putterman's Big Toe (5.9) or it's sister crack, Glob Gleab (C1), on the south face. Both of these routes are described on this website.
However you reach the ledge, walk back into the obvious cave (the cave is actually a huge chimney). About 20 feet back into the 'cave', the walls pinch off. The climb starts here.
Chimney through the slot (5.8+). This is the Poopshoot. After about 15 feet, the chimney opens up. If you're facing INTO the deep chimney, the wall on your right continues up to overhanging choss, while the wall on your left continues up to slabby choss. Slabby choss is easier to climb.
Turn around so you're facing OUT of the chimney system. Stem between the walls and work your way about 15-20 feet forward, so that you're standing directly above your belayer. Climb the somewhat loose wall (5.5) to a short slot (5.8) which reaches the plateau of the 'south summit'.
You can set up a belay in a crack in the summit surface, using 2-4 inch cams.
Descent: There is no summit anchor. Simul-rap, using a 60m rope.
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