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 ADVANCED
Neighbor Of Putterman
Select Route:
After the Rain T 
Big Toe Slab TR 
Fearless T 
Glob Gleab 
Putterman's Big Toe T 
Putterman's Poopshoot T 
Suzi Has No Choice T 

Putterman's Poopshoot 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Russell, Brian Shelton, Martin Douglas, Sonia Quiroga
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: Dan Russell on Sep 21, 2002

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Description 

Putterman's Poopshoot climbs to the 'south summit' of the Neighbor of Putterman. It is named for the sandy hole through which it climbs. The climbing is not spectacular, but it does gain a summit via a unique route.

The route actually starts on the big ledge at half-height on the end of the cliff (the west end, facing the House of Putterman formation). There are two ways to access this ledge. Either climb Putterman's Big Toe (5.9) or it's sister crack, Glob Gleab (C1), on the south face. Both of these routes are described on this website.

However you reach the ledge, walk back into the obvious cave (the cave is actually a huge chimney). About 20 feet back into the 'cave', the walls pinch off. The climb starts here.

Chimney through the slot (5.8+). This is the Poopshoot. After about 15 feet, the chimney opens up. If you're facing INTO the deep chimney, the wall on your right continues up to overhanging choss, while the wall on your left continues up to slabby choss. Slabby choss is easier to climb.

Turn around so you're facing OUT of the chimney system. Stem between the walls and work your way about 15-20 feet forward, so that you're standing directly above your belayer. Climb the somewhat loose wall (5.5) to a short slot (5.8) which reaches the plateau of the 'south summit'.

You can set up a belay in a crack in the summit surface, using 2-4 inch cams.

Descent: There is no summit anchor. Simul-rap, using a 60m rope.

Protection 

Bring a handful of 1-3 inch pieces, and a few bigger pieces (2-4 inches) for the belay.


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By Dan Russell
Oct 3, 2002

By the way, I gave it an _s_ rating because it_s a bit runout. Not terribly so, but if you did happen to slip while stemming above the chimney, a fall would result in some painful ping+ponging down the chimney. It_s easy, but a bit runout on loose rock.