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Waterfall Cliff
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Anti-Christ S 
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Clamydia S 
Convulsions T 
Degeneration T,S,TR 
Falls, The S 
Greeboo, The S 
Leading To Death T,S,TR 
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Oracle, The S 
Putrefaction S,TR 

Putrefaction 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,187
Submitted By: jared toettcher on Aug 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Geoff huffing the crux.

Description 

Most of this route is a 5.10c. The 11a crux involves coming out of the overhang immediately after the 4th bolt. It's a bouldery move; dropknee the right leg and go from the undercling under the roof to a pocket up to your left. If you're short & have iron tendons, go to the mono below the pocket. Don't worry; this move can be dodged by going left around the overhang if you're not up to it. Finishing the route to the anchors is a little run out, but really easy.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 anchors on top.


Photos of Putrefaction Slideshow Add Photo
Clipping the bolt for the crux roof on "Putrefaction" (5.11a).
Clipping the bolt for the crux roof on "Putrefacti...
Sallie, seeing the light, just after the second hard slab section.
Sallie, seeing the light, just after the second ha...
Sallie, just after the first 10c section.  Standing up on the ramp just above her head is the second hard section.
Sallie, just after the first 10c section. Standin...
Sallie, just above the 11a bulge crux.
Sallie, just above the 11a bulge crux.
Over the roof on the final summit slab of "Putrefaction" (5.11a), Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff, CRSP, California
Over the roof on the final summit slab of "Putrefa...
Climber completing the 5.10c slab crux before confronting the final 5.11a roof of "Putrefaction" (5.11a), Castle Rock Falls, CRSP, California
Climber completing the 5.10c slab crux before conf...
Paul doing the crux move thru the roof of Putrefaction.  November 2004
Paul doing the crux move thru the roof of Putrefac...

Comments on Putrefaction Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 9, 2014
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 5, 2002

The crux was a dyno for me, it seemed that a few more inches would've helped a little... Still a fun move though, and a great hip workout.
By Hank Sato
May 27, 2004

This is one of the hardest 11a I have ever climbed. The lower slab (10C?) section is very nices. The crux move is very boulderly. I did the undercling way. I think on-sighting this route may be difficult compared with other standard 5.11a's.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 19, 2004

Is there still a bolt route right below the observation tower? used to be 10a getting to the first bolt, then 8 after that. 5 bolts? 100feet. I heard rumor that there is a new bolt at the top.(#6) At the top, tip toe up ramp to the left. I tried to mantle straight over and took a big fall(before the bolt was there) Oops. wear a helmet if you think you might come off.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Sep 29, 2004

This is a great route! Although many say it's a one move wonder I tend to disagree. The slab climbing up the face is rated 10c and I believe has two sections of 10c. Soloing up to the first bolt is not hard, maybe 5.9, with the last move to the bolt being the diciest. The moves past the bulge are well protected with a bolt. I think there are two hard moves here. The first is reaching the small 2-3 finger hole and the second is getting your feet over the lip. At first the reach seemed impossible. After thinking it out, I laybacked off the large left facing edge, moved feet up high on face below and was able to pull up and reach with left hand to the hole. It was a struggle to get my feet up as there is nothing but smooth wall to friction up. I really enjoyed this route. 11a is probably correct but it is a hard crux!
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 27, 2009

The "crux" can be easily and safely avoided by going just four feet to the left, up and over. This is a much more natural line, though easier. But, hey, isn't a "route" supposed to follow a natural line?
By chill54
Mar 7, 2010

Ian,
I think a route is "supposed" to follow wherever the hell you feel like going.
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 7, 2010

Agreed. And I definitely did not feel like tearing a tendon trying to crank over that roof when you can step 2 feet left and make a couple easy slab moves still well protected by the bolt.

This is a terrific route for CRSP if you skip the roof (3 stars, ~5.10c). The roof may be fun if you're up for it, but don't skip out on the route just because sandbagged 5.11a isn't your cup of tea.
By NorCalNomad
From: San Francisco
May 23, 2012

I wouldn't say this is a sandbagged .11a at all. There is basically 3 moves in the 11 range...I'd call them maybe closer to 11c/ V3 but you have that amazing rest and a bolt basically making it a top roped move. Getting from the 2nd to 3rd almost was harder with crap feet.

Sweet sand stone twist to slab climbing
By Phil McAllister
Jun 1, 2012

Great route to test yourself on - all the bolts are just below anything cruxy - on the 10c slabby section and the roof - no sketchy moves above bolts to get your heart racing. Can hang dog it and try as many times as you need to.
By clarkejc
From: Santa Cruz, California
Aug 10, 2012

Anyone lose some gear here? Get me contact info and a description and I'll get it back to you!
By John Groh
Sep 9, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Spray much?