Most of this route is a 5.10c. The 11a crux involves coming out of the overhang immediately after the 4th bolt. It's a bouldery move; dropknee the right leg and go from the undercling under the roof to a pocket up to your left. If you're short & have iron tendons, go to the mono below the pocket. Don't worry; this move can be dodged by going left around the overhang if you're not up to it. Finishing the route to the anchors is a little run out, but really easy.
This is one of the hardest 11a I have ever climbed. The lower slab (10C?) section is very nices. The crux move is very boulderly. I did the undercling way. I think on-sighting this route may be difficult compared with other standard 5.11a's.
Is there still a bolt route right below the observation tower? used to be 10a getting to the first bolt, then 8 after that. 5 bolts? 100feet. I heard rumor that there is a new bolt at the top.(#6) At the top, tip toe up ramp to the left. I tried to mantle straight over and took a big fall(before the bolt was there) Oops. wear a helmet if you think you might come off.
This is a great route! Although many say it's a one move wonder I tend to disagree. The slab climbing up the face is rated 10c and I believe has two sections of 10c. Soloing up to the first bolt is not hard, maybe 5.9, with the last move to the bolt being the diciest. The moves past the bulge are well protected with a bolt. I think there are two hard moves here. The first is reaching the small 2-3 finger hole and the second is getting your feet over the lip. At first the reach seemed impossible. After thinking it out, I laybacked off the large left facing edge, moved feet up high on face below and was able to pull up and reach with left hand to the hole. It was a struggle to get my feet up as there is nothing but smooth wall to friction up. I really enjoyed this route. 11a is probably correct but it is a hard crux!
The "crux" can be easily and safely avoided by going just four feet to the left, up and over. This is a much more natural line, though easier. But, hey, isn't a "route" supposed to follow a natural line?
I wouldn't say this is a sandbagged .11a at all. There is basically 3 moves in the 11 range...I'd call them maybe closer to 11c/ V3 but you have that amazing rest and a bolt basically making it a top roped move. Getting from the 2nd to 3rd almost was harder with crap feet.
Great route to test yourself on - all the bolts are just below anything cruxy - on the 10c shabby section and the roof - no sketchy moves above bolts to get your heart racing. Can hang dog it and try as many times as you need to.
By clarkejc From: Santa Cruz, California Aug 10, 2012
Anyone lose some gear here? Get me contact info and a description and I'll get it back to you!