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 ADVANCED
Sector D'or et Bleu
Routes Sorted
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Buck-n-Spin S 
Galactic Emperor  S 
Pussytoes S 
Sky Pilot S 
Tutu Man S 

Pussytoes 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alli Rainey
Page Views: 1,634
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 7, 2006

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Description 

Awesome line! Step up and and fire the crux bouldery start. Involves precision and control through the first three clips. Beta intensive. Shake on the jugs and cruise to the chains.

This line used to be shorter with an extension called Rosy Pussytoes that climbed four more bolts up the beautiful pockety headwall to the top of the steep part of the cliff. Most people, unable to do this cryptic sequence of pockets, opted to use the crack to the right which is more like 5.10 not 5.13. The bolts were moved over right to accommodate the 'new' finish and 'Rosy' was dropped from the name.

Location 

Climbs the orange streak between Doomsday and Porcelain.

Protection 

12 bolts, 2 BA


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By Jesse Ryan
Sep 7, 2006

On the grade: The lower crux was on par but a tad easier than the crux on Twitch in Clear Creek. Obviously the line is more continuous above the initial crux than Twitch, thus I felt the line was solid at 12d.