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Trundler's Club Buttress
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Pussy Mind Trick (PMT) T,S 
Trundler's Club T 

Pussy Mind Trick (PMT) 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Seth Dyer, JJ Schlick, James Martin 2001/02
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall/winter
Page Views: 2,634
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jul 29, 2006

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Sean flashing P1!

Description 

PMT takes a proud, and aesthetic line of resistance up the steep front of the buttress. Expect technical face climbing, as well as, down home crack slugging. The third pitch offers as much exposure as you can get on the formation, and is an unforgettable experience.

To the right of Trundlers Club.

Pitch 1, 5.12-, A stunning combination of features makes this line possible. Climb wistfully, if you can through shallow dihedrals, small aretes, and thin, solid face holds past bolts to a two bolt, semi hanging belay. The climbing on this pitch is technically demanding, and uniquely beautiful.

Pitch 2, 5.10+, Climb hand and fist crack into the "V" shaped chimney, and out the small overhang to the Triangle Ledge. Standard rack and bolts. NOTE- you can keep going up to the next set of anchors to belay. Less comfy, but time saving.

Pitch 3, 5.10+/.11-, I still think it's best to belay from the higher belay. Climb face out and left past several bolts to reach the very thin crack. This section is very exposed, and feels pretty wild. Climb the ever widening crack to top and the party ledge. Standard rack + a #4 for the top, and maybe even a #5.

Protection 

If it's your first go, a rack of doubles from #00 TCU- #3 Camalot, wires, and a small selection of larger cams. , 60 meter rope.

Rap the route carefully, with a 60 meter, and you're rocking it with a 70 meter.


Photos of Pussy Mind Trick (PMT) Slideshow Add Photo
You can see the first pitch of face/corner climbin...
You can see the first pitch of face/corner climbin...

Comments on Pussy Mind Trick (PMT) Add Comment
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By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Apr 19, 2015

CONDITION REPORT 
We climbed Trundler's Club today (April 18, 2014). During our rappel down PMT our rope became stuck in the crack on the 2nd pitch of PMT when we were pulling it. We tried to dislodge it but were unsuccessful. We put a locking carabiner on the chains at the top of P1 of PMT, tied an overhand and clipped it to the locker thus fixing the line. We rapped on the single strand. As sad as we are to lose a rope we are even more sad to leave this up as an eye sore in Sedona.

Should anyone be headed out that way sometime soon, we would be grateful if they can dislodge the rope from the crack. We would be supremely grateful if they return our rope, but we are willing to accept finders keepers or cutting the rope not lodged in the crack. Same goes for the locking carabiner on the anchors.
By Jason Nelson
From: SLC, UT
Feb 12, 2012

A simple approach is go to Chicken Point and then head up a gully toward the route. Here are GPS directions. bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/Maps/E... (note: we had some backtracking due to getting cliffed out)
Rap Beta: use a 70M rope and rap from the higher anchor on the second rappel. 1st person raps down the corner to easily reach the anchors and ties the rope ends into the anchor. 2nd person raps straight down the steeper face and can be pulled into the anchors. The rope won't go anywhere near the crack this way.
By Dean Hoffman
Apr 29, 2013

Fantastic route! Somehow I had it in my head that the first pitch was 5.11, I was sorely mistaken, it is a brilliant pitch of sustained technical 5.12 face climbing! Very very intriguing and challenging. As for the approach, if you have a vehicle that can make the drive, drive to Chicken point and enjoy a leisurely 15-20 min approach and a heroes welcome from the Pinko's when you return! And don't fret about stuck ropes, just be thoughtful with yer pulls!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

excellent work by the FA party, though I am not surprised. The first half of P1 is thoughtful yet secure face climbing followed by a nice rest. Then get ready for two subtle and techy cruxes separated by another rest. Incredible pitch. 11 bolts.

For pitch 2, don't be tempted to burn your big cams (#3 and #4) too early, though there is a sweet spot for a #5 at the beginning. For the rest of this pitch you only need a few pieces up to #.75 C4, doubles in 1s, 2s, and 3s, and one #4. The two bolts at the chimney are right where you want them. "Triangle of Love" ledge is about as good as it gets.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 4, 2015

I'm weak but I thought P3 was a classic sandbag, however my partners had no trouble following. P1 is as good as it gets! Figuring out the techy arete pulls and intricate footwork is a blast!

This should go without saying but... absolutely do not do this route after a rain, there are a ton of small holds ready to break off, especially on P3.

Climbed it in early January when it was sunny, no wind, and a high of 52 and it was perfect in a t-shirt (or shirtless)!

Approaching from the church via chicken point took us 30 minutes.
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