Mind Trick
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 21 votes
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Seth Dyer, JJ Schlick, James Martin 2000/01 |
Page Views: | 5,984 total · 28/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Jul 29, 2006 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Mind Trick takes a proud and aesthetic line of resistance up the steep front of the buttress. Expect technical face climbing, backstabbing arête moves, as well as, some down home crack slugging. Duking it out with the third pitch offers as much exposure as you can get on the formation and is an unforgettable experience one way or the other. May the force be with you and the mind tricks in your control.
To the right of Trundlers Club.
Pitch 1, 5.12-, A stunning combination of features makes this line possible. Climb wistfully, if you can through shallow dihedrals, small aretes, and thin, solid face holds past bolts to a two bolt, semi hanging belay. The climbing on this pitch is technically demanding and uniquely beautiful.
Pitch 2, 5.10+, Climb hand and fist crack into the large flare and out the small overhang to the Triangle Ledge. Standard rack and bolts. Hard not to enjoy this perfect little horizontal refuge. Above is one of the rappel anchors.
Pitch 3, 5.11+, Climb face past rappel anchor and then left past several bolts to reach the very thin crack. This section is very exposed and feels pretty wild. Climb the ever widening crack to the top and the party ledge. Standard rack + a #4 for the top, and maybe even a #5.
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