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Terrible Twos Wall
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Left and Right Practice Cracks T 
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Pussy Bolt 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: I don't want to know!!!
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 8, 2003

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Description 

This route is not actually on "terrible two's" wall. Instead, it ascends the left side of a leaning pinnacle south-west of "terrible two's" wall. It's moderate, doesn't require a wall sized rack, and is right off the road. Yes sir, I stole the "pussy bolt" in 1997, when I placed a 3.5" friend 4 inches to the right of the bolt. I believe somebody was learning how to handdrill on this first ascent. Fun route, very moderate. I decided that by removed the pussy bolt, I will rename the route to "The Fixed Route." After all, Tyler Phillips and I fixed this climb. A few hand sized cams will get you up this route. Lower from slings through two bolts.-tda


Protection 

Cams ( medium sizes)



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By Anonymous Coward
Feb 13, 2003

A 4.5 or 5 camalot will protect the upper crack and smaller cams the lower stuff, the bolt is/was unneccesary.

By Jared R
Aug 9, 2009

Fun Route with off width Crux. I'd do it again. Used cams up to #3 camalot and hexes up to #10. Great route. Place the #3 before the off width section and place a piece after the off width section to avoid using the larger cams, It's only a 7-8 foot run out if you do this.