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Purple Valley Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Purple Valley

L › R R › L A › Z

	5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	A Way of Life S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Big Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Burden of Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Captain One Eye S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Coffee Talk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Come In Your Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Delusions of Grandeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Electric Cowboy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Flaring Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grunt T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Hot Licks and Rhetoric T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Into the Purple Valley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Love Shack, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pebbly Poo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Pleasant Surprise T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Shish-kebab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
	Social Butterfly T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Elevation:	1,097 ft
GPS:	37.90083, -83.63815 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

The routes at Purple Valley are unique for the area and typically aesthetic in appearance and the way they climb. A few routes top out, and most are 50 feet or longer. While Purple is popular, it is not odd to be the only party at the cliff.

Getting There

Drive to the end of FS Rd. 9b. If you haven't been to Purple Valley in a few years the road now ends quite a bit earlier than it used to. Park same as Dip Wall, cross the creek, and walk the old gravel road to a second creek crossing. After passing a road on the right look for a faint trail on the right across from some old posts. This is the original approach trail.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Purple Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 17 ● Flaring Crack Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 14 ● Grunt Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 69 ● Into the Purple Valley Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 12 ● Pebbly Poo Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 39 ● Captain One Eye Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 14 ● Social Butterfly Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 47 ● Come In Your Lycra Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 15 ● 5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 13 ● A Way of Life Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 37 ● Electric Cowboy Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 9 ● Delusions of Grandeur Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 7 ● The Love Shack Sport