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White Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Mid Western climb TR 
Aku Aku T,TR 
Civilian Stripes T,TR 
Easter Island T,TR 
Exit Blues T,TR 
Purple Stripe TR 
Short People Need Not Apply TR 
Unsatisfactorily T 

Purple Stripe 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  TR, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Oct 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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En pointe.

Description 

Climb up the set-back to the ledge, or climb a crack on the right and hand-traverse left to the ledge (more contrived, but more fun moves). Step up on a decent foothold out on the face, and work your way through a serious of strenuous small holds up the seam to the top. Clever footwork pays dividends here.


Location 

The main portion of White Wall hosts a couple of 12's, and "Purple Stripe." On the left side of this sweep of rock is a square cut set-back with a ledge/alcove on its right.


Protection 

Gear to 2" for the lower part. Gear from 1/8 - 1/2" at the crux. It's actually possible to get 3-4 pieces in, if you have enough small gear and the patience to hang out and place it.

Although there is gear, it requires precision to place it well, so I'd still call this route PG13.



Photos of Purple Stripe Slideshow Add Photo
Dunbar again.  Multiple shadowing makes it hard to decide on camera settings.  Dunbar made this thing look easy on the other hand.
Dunbar again. Multiple shadowing makes it hard to...
Purple Stripe goes up the zig-zags (start left or right) and then straight up a small seam at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Purple Stripe goes up the zig-zags (start left or ...
Making the final stab. Good-ish gear.
Making the final stab. Good-ish gear.
Dunbar
Dunbar
Rock colorations i.e Purple Stripes.  To be found on an exposure very nearby.
Rock colorations i.e Purple Stripes. To be found ...
Comments on Purple Stripe Add Comment
Show which comments
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 19, 2009

Wow! Got on the sharp end on this this weekend past but had to swerve off at the crux. Felt like 10+ on the second try. Sheesch! Tricky and devious to say the least.. there is good gear but to let go and place calls for a serious pump for the grade. Beautiful!

By Tradoholic
Jul 27, 2009

I also bailed off the crux to the left. I went up with only a set of nuts but if I had a small cam it would have been well protectable, the nuts went in but were crap.

By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Ha! My story is the same! Went for the onsight, got a decent #1C3 just before the crux, but it wasn't enough to climb above not knowing what lies ahead......so I bailed left also. After a tough OS on TR I was glad I didn't go for it! 10+ sounds about right.

By Dunbar Carpenter
From: Madison WI
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The crux of this route, the very last move, is definitely height-dependent. I was able to statically grab the top edge from a precarious but okay position below, but others would have to make a much trickier move to reach. I'll give it 5.9+ - it was probably more of a 9 for me, but definitely harder for someone shorter.

I lead this after a TR. The whole route actually has good protection, including the top, it's just tricky to get stuff in the last 10 ft because its a small crack and the stance you get is balancy and a bit strenuous.

Really fun route, including the bottom.