Purple Pinky Eater 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | MTKirk on Jan 27, 2013 |
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BETA PHOTO: Purple Pinky Eater, Phipps Park, Billings, MT
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Description Great climb marred by poor top out. Start in a shallow left facing corner, pull a mini-roof, then move up the splitter to easier ground. The top goes free, but the rock is bad, and the gear is worse. Still; if purple camalots (rattly fingers) are your thing (maybe you should see someone about this?) you must climb this route. More accurately the Purple Index Finger Eater- but that doesn't exactly roll off the tongue.
Location You can approach this from top (best) or bottom, both are completely within the city park.
Protection Camalots .75 to .4 mostly .5 (purple). Trad gear is excellent until the choss on top. Consider lowering off your last good cam, or hanging a second rope down from the top anchor. The anchors are back form the edge so you need to get a little creative making a top rope anchor (long slings or second rope).
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