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Phipps Park
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Best Crack in Bozeman, The 
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Purple Pinky Eater 
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Purple Pinky Eater 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 289
Submitted By: MTKirk on Jan 27, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Purple Pinky Eater, Phipps Park, Billings, MT

Description 

Great climb marred by poor top out. Start in a shallow left facing corner, pull a mini-roof, then move up the splitter to easier ground. The top goes free, but the rock is bad, and the gear is worse. Still; if purple camalots (rattly fingers) are your thing (maybe you should see someone about this?) you must climb this route. More accurately the Purple Index Finger Eater- but that doesn't exactly roll off the tongue.


Location 

You can approach this from top (best) or bottom, both are completely within the city park. Located at 45.80786,-108.69267


Protection 

Camalots .75 to .4 mostly .5 (purple). Trad gear is excellent until the choss on top. Consider lowering off your last good cam, or hanging a second rope down from the top anchor. The anchors are back form the edge so you need to get a little creative making a top rope anchor (long slings or second rope).



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By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Oct 27, 2013

Where is this in relation to Big Eagle Feather?

By MTKirk
From: Billings, MT
Nov 20, 2013

Whoops! forgot to post co-ordinates on this one! Anyway it's been updated. From Big Eagle Feather it's about 2000 ft Southwest as the crow flies. Type the co-ordinates in google maps & you should be able to find it. If all else fails, give me a text & I'll walk you over there 406 794-4362.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Dec 20, 2013

Thanks!