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Unsorted Routes:

Purple Pinky Eater 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Cody Scarpella, Greg Garretson, 8/08
Page Views: 1,348
Submitted By: WallyFox on Jun 3, 2010

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Description 

A double crack leads to a technical seam stem problem with various openings just big enough for finger tips.


Location 

Just to the right of squiggles.


Protection 

The double crack will take one and two inch pieces. When you reach the seam, purple and blue metolius tcu's or just run it out to the horizontal, which will take an orange metolius.



Comments on Purple Pinky Eater Add Comment
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By WallyFox
Sep 21, 2010

running it out to the horizontal would be super bold, something I would never do.

By Dave E.
From: washington
Oct 13, 2010

beta!!! there is a decent left hand, thumbsdown fingerlock about halfway through the crux that can be tremendously helpfull

By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Moderate start to sequential stemming/bridging/palming/tips moves in the crux followed by a not as exciting but fun headwall finish. The inside of the crux crack is still kinda crunchy so it makes you work a little more to get the pro perfect. Start is mostly #2 Camalots but you could place a #1 & #3 too. Sew up the crux with (3) #0 & (1) #1 TCU's and/or Master Cams, or #0-#1 C3's, etc...I used a #1 & #3 Camalot and a #1 TCU for the remainder.