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Purple Galaxy busts some bouldery initial climbing up to and past the first bolt, followed by some great sequential pocket pulling. It slowly eases off as you approach the 1st set of chains. Keep going though! The upper bulge adds a nice little punch to the end of the route, with some pumpy climbing and some last minute decision making. For those who track the numbers, probably soft at 12a to the 1st set of anchors, but solid if you take the full ride.8
This is the first long route (over 4-5 bolts) on the wall, located on a nice purple section of the wall, just before and to the right of a low prow / arete feature. If you see a boltrd left facing dihedral, you've just passed it.
8 bolts to 1st anchor and 4 more to final anchor, so 13-14 bolts + anchor for the full pitch. Over 25m to top anchor! So 60m rope or mid anchor pit stop needed.
All smiles on a good line.
Tanner Jones taking a small rest before the busine...
|Comments on Purple Galaxy
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Oct 31, 2011
After climbing this thing a couple of times, one has to wonder how "enhanced" those super duper deep monos are. I'd choose to feign ignorance, because this thing has some outstanding climbing!
|By Phill T|
May 14, 2012
you dont have to use the two monos, there are definitely ways around them for those of us that dont have pulleys of steel. getting off the ground is greasy as hell and I'd say the crux of the route, recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt (the first you can clip from the ground).