Type: Boulder
FA: Fred Nicole
Page Views: 1,540 total · 9/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on Mar 1, 2010 · Updates
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: East Spur is accessed by Guided Tour Only DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Guided tour access only DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This problem begins way back in the cave scrunched up on a rock on two underclings. Work your way around the roof to (hopefully) a kneebar and then kick over to the slab (another boulder) and finish on that boulder. There is so much beta and so many different ways of doing this climb that I'm not going to include the beta for this one although I will say that there are up to 3 kneebars and the best beta deviates from Fred Nicole's original version that he graded V10 (and is still reflected in the Wilder book).

Location Suggest change

This route is on the same bloc as Flower Power (and is actually the original albeit shorter version). From Glas Roof hike up the slabs and turn to your right at the top of the slab approach. The boulder is on your right and is a large roof.

Protection Suggest change

Two pads and a spotter. As well as a spotter for the spotter down in the whole where you can find a soft V8.

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