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Cactus Cliff
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Purple Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 748
Submitted By: Baumer on Nov 22, 2011

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Description 

Start up the finger crack just right of Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass and follow the corner up. Stem out wide or get sucked into the chimney like I did. The crux is getting to the small ledge with the Charlie Brown Christmas tree on it about 2/3's of the way up. After that, it gets a bit dirty. (This route is in Bob D'Antonio's 2010 guidebook as well as in the old beta photos on this site.)

Protection 

Gear to 4 inches. There's a decent tree up top to bring up a second (and walk off), but it's a bit loose up there, so top-roping probably isn't a great idea.


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By Nat T.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 24, 2013

Did this route at the end of the day and found it to be my favorite. I enjoy finding trad routes in sport areas, and it can be nice when it gets super busy. You have to climb to a huge ledge to gain the crack. Great placements all the way up with big holds. Gear from a 0.75 to 3. The book says to climb all the way up to a tree and walk off "for the full trad experience", but not wanting to walk all the way around Cactus Cliff, I traversed out left onto the face of the nearby climb and used the anchors of Six Pack. There is also a thorn bush at the top of the crack with some wide gear placements that I didn't have. Just watch the swing when you traverse. Super fun!