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Purgatory
Rio Trout Light Touch Fly Line WF5F

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Patagonia Men's Winter Sun Hoody

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Believer 
Dracula '04 
Gimp, The 
Gluttony 
Hellraiser 
Jumbo Shrimp 
Paradise Lost 
Special Boy 

Purgatory 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: LeeAB on Oct 19, 2009

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Partly Cloudy
66° | 43°
Partly Cloudy
70° | 46°
Chance of Rain
77° | 54°
Mostly Cloudy
84° | 54°
Mostly Cloudy
84° | 63°

BETA PHOTO: Routes from left to right:
Dracula '04
Lucifer
The...


Description 

Morning sun.

Many of the routes are climbable in the rain.

A couple of 5.10's, a couple of 5.11's, a couple of 5.12-'s, 3 5.13b's and one of the hardest routes in the gorge, Lucifer 5.14c.

Very pretty wall but a long walk in. Not likely to be crowded but if it is there are not many routes to choose from so if you show up and there arer a bunch of people there you may want ot head back to one of the other areas that are near by.


Getting There 

Follow the signs from the parking area. Once you are on the road it tapers to a trail once you are past most of the areas and you have to cross two little drainages on this tril before you turn up left ot the cliff which is signed.

Once you reach the wall, there are a few trad lines to the left but most of the routes arer to the right, through a tunnel formed by the wall and a boulder.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Purgatory:
Believer   5.11     Sport, 60 feet   
Special Boy   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Gluttony   5.12a     Sport, 70 feet   
Hellraiser   5.12     Sport, 60 feet   
Dracula '04   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Paradise Lost   5.13b     Sport, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in Purgatory

Featured Route For Purgatory
Working through the technical start, photo by Adrian P

Dracula '04 5.13b  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Purgatory
Very technical climbing to start up the offset seam, you really have to trust some bad feet and get the hand sequence right. The holds get much better at the mini roof and 3rd bolt. Move left to a flake feature then up and back right to a rest jug. Clip your last bolt and make a couple of long moves up to an obvious pocket, your foot is now at the bottom of your last draw. Start the upper crux by punching out to the arete and slapping your way up and around to jugs above and left of the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY


Photos of Purgatory Slideshow Add Photo
The Purgatory amphitheatre

The Purgatory amphitheatre