BETA PHOTO: Routes from left to right:
Many of the routes are climbable in the rain.
A couple of 5.10's, a couple of 5.11's, a couple of 5.12-'s, 3 5.13b's and one of the hardest routes in the gorge, Lucifer 5.14c.
Very pretty wall but a long walk in. Not likely to be crowded but if it is there are not many routes to choose from so if you show up and there arer a bunch of people there you may want ot head back to one of the other areas that are near by.
Follow the signs from the parking area. Once you are on the road it tapers to a trail once you are past most of the areas and you have to cross two little drainages on this tril before you turn up left ot the cliff which is signed.
Once you reach the wall, there are a few trad lines to the left but most of the routes arer to the right, through a tunnel formed by the wall and a boulder.
Weather station 1.3 miles from here
8 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Purgatory:
Gluttony 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 70'
Featured Route For Purgatory
Dracula '04 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c KY
: Red River Gorge
: ... : Purgatory
Very technical climbing to start up the offset seam, you really have to trust some bad feet and get the hand sequence right. The holds get much better at the mini roof and 3rd bolt. Move left to a flake feature then up and back right to a rest jug. Clip your last bolt and make a couple of long moves up to an obvious pocket, your foot is now at the bottom of your last draw. Start the upper crux by punching out to the arete and slapping your way up and around to jugs above and left of the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in KY
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The Purgatory amphitheatre