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Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)
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Crack, The T,TR 
Crazy Crack T,TR 
Guillotine, The TR 
Kanaranzi Right TR 
Purgatory T,TR 
Stairway to Heaven TR 
Stairway To Hell TR 

Purgatory 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,449
Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Jun 13, 2007

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Description 

A classic harder route at Blue Mounds. Begins in a square black niche about 15 feet right of Crazy Crack. Climb straight up a broken crack system over several small roofs. The Falcon Guide (Mike Farris) suggests possibly moving left. Straight up past an obvious 2 foot long roof crack feels more appropriate.

Location 

Middle of the East Face of Kanaranzi Buttress. Access to the top requires some exposed scrambing over large wedged blocks on the left (South) side of the buttress.

Protection 

A fairly tricky toprope setup by Blue Mounds standards, bring long slings. Be careful when setting up the anchor as the top has several sloping steps near the edge. There's a few nut placements to climber's left about 6 feet from the edge and midsize cam placements to climber's right near the back edge of the buttress.

If leading take small nuts to medium cams or hexes. Little to no gear for the last 10 feet which includes the crux.


Photos of Purgatory Slideshow Add Photo
Annette toproping Purgatory between showers at Blue Mounds Gathering June 2007
Annette toproping Purgatory between showers at Blu...
Annette reaching for the obvious roof crack near the top of Purgatory.  Blue Mounds Gathering June 2007
Annette reaching for the obvious roof crack near t...
pulling roofs
pulling roofs

Comments on Purgatory Add Comment
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By Pete Hunt
Nov 10, 2013

Here is the rack you'll need for leading Purgatory. Notice the crucial micro nut. Replace the #1 Camalot with a 0.75 (for a total of two 0.75's). Big fall potential at top but would be pretty clean. Photo courtesy Jesse Littleton.

Here is the rack you'll need for leading Purgatory.  Notice the crucial micro nut.  Replace the #1 Camalot with a 0.75 (for a  total of two 0.75's).  Big fall potential at top but would be pretty clean.  Photo courtesy Jesse Littleton.
Here is the rack you'll need for leading Purgatory. Notice the crucial micro nut. Replace the #1 Camalot with a 0.75 (for a total of two 0.75's). Big fall potential at top but would be pretty clean. Photo courtesy Jesse Littleton.