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The Little Fin
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Byrontosaurus S 
Purgatorius S 

Purgatorius 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Claude Traufield
Page Views: 868
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Tom Sprague moving up gingerly.

Description 

This is another sport climb on near vertical, gritty, featured rock that will need some traffic to clean up.

Ascend easy terrain past 3 bolts starting on a micro-flatiron. Then there is a longish reach around the 4th bolt. Dance right (cruxish), up, then left. Note, the 6th bolt leaves you top biner dangling partway over an edge, so I don't recommend falling on the 6th bolt. Perhaps a rounded hanger would allow threading a sling? The terrain eases up and you gain the two bolt anchor.

This route currently leaves one a bit cautious pulling on flakes and trusting edges. Adventure sport climbing.

Note, Claude indicated he felt the route clocks in at 8+. Per Claude "it was named after a small extinct creature that managed to survive for a time during and after the era of the thunder lizards. There's even a picture of what it was thought to look like on Wikipedia." Thanks, Claude!

Location 

This is left of Byrontosaurus perhaps 100 feet, past a flake-filled groove, near a moderate-sized tree.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Purgatorius Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the anchors.
Nearing the anchors.
Matt working out the cruxish area.
Matt working out the cruxish area.

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