|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Jeff Pedersen and Steve Crandal|
|Submitted By:||Christian Knight on May 9, 2008|
|Comments on Pure Thoughts||Add Comment|
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By Darren Knezek
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Like many of the harder lines on the quartzite, this climb had some eliminations if you wanted to get the higher grade. This one was rated 5.11a if you didn't use the crack of Green Dihedral to the left or reach around the arete to the right and into the dirty crack there. You can climb the route using those features, but the grade would be much easier.
The eliminations of certain features on many of the climbs in Rock Canyon on the quartzite was a tool used throughout the late 1970's as well as the 1980's to produce climbs that were much more difficult as well as more fun.
Routes with these eliminations off the top of my head would be: Mr. Numbers, Mother of Invention, Spam, Green Monster Aid Crack & The Bulge.
It seemed like all the eliminations were common knowledge during the 1980's as well as the 1990's.
Some of the eliminations would seem to be quite obvious like don't climb on the 5.6 crack to the left of Mr. Numbers, while others a little more obscure like you can't use the arete to the right of Mr. Numbers as this was a different climb also.
Anyway, I thought climbers might like to know this, before they think a rating on a certain climb in Rock Canyon is soft.