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Wildfire Wall
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Bad Finger T 
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Cornercopia T 
Crime Wave T 
Cry of the Poor T 
Gruff T 
Iron Cross T 
Just Say Yes S 
Lion of Judah S 
Mad Man T,TR 
Neutral Zone T 
On The Road T 
Out Of Darkness T 
Pure Palm S 
Rim Job T 
Soft Touch T 
Split Decision T,S 
Titus T 
Try To Be Hip S 
White Trash S 
Wildfire T 

Pure Palm 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Watts 1984
Page Views: 8,599
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Fishing for holds (turns out there aren't any) on ...

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Description 

Amazing stemming test piece of the Lower Gorge.
Stem and palm (duh) your way up the wide stem box.
Classic.

Location 

Left of On The Road and right of Cornicopia.

Protection 

draws


Photos of Pure Palm Slideshow Add Photo
Sean feeling through some pure palm
Sean feeling through some pure palm
The top crux
The top crux
Clipping up Pure Palm
Clipping up Pure Palm
a finger lock?
a finger lock?
Starting Pure Palm
Starting Pure Palm
Pure Palm
Pure Palm
clip and don't slip
clip and don't slip
stemming queen
stemming queen
she loves it!
she loves it!
palming, but of course
palming, but of course

Comments on Pure Palm Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This classic stemming problem has no real crux, just continuously difficult movement that makes it a blast to climb and will leave a smile on your face.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is some crazy fun stuff. Expect a little thrill reaching the fourth bolt - just far enough above the last bolt to get your attention. I couldn't wipe the smile off my face after leading this....
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I took a nice fall on the 3rd bolt; Andy is right about a nice little gap with a couple of no-turning-back moves before the 4th.

Stellar route!
By Alexander
From: San Francisco
Jun 24, 2010

This is the most fun 11A ever in my book. I couldn't believe how wicked the whole thing was all the way to the anchors, it was such a welcome departure from face climbs in other areas. What a great route.
By Chalu Kim
Sep 19, 2013

This is a must climb in the lower gorge. This climb will make your feet work. Great training climb if anything. Do laps. Don't use anchors for top roping.
By Scott Goodwin
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 23, 2013

This is among my favorite climbs ever, anywhere, any time. An absolute classic. An absolute must-do, though I suppose you'll either love it or hate it, depending on your climbing prefs.
By Johnny Y
From: California
Oct 9, 2014

So much fun!

I was told that the original FA was done on pins, and when they put in the bolts, they were placed at the same level to preserve the clipping stance. I can't imagine leading this on gear.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 11, 2014

Watch the leader going for the 4th bolt. Many people consider this the first crux (the second coming around the last bolt). If your belayer is light and the leader is heavy and they bail from right below the fourth bolt it is possible to hit the belayer. Stay attentive and it will be fine.

If you want to TR this without leading, you can sneak over from the top of Cornercopia. Its not the easiest traverse ever though, and long arms really help...