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Purcell Mountians

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Bugaboos, The 
Vowell/Conrad Groups 

Purcell Mountians 


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Location: 50.1782, -116.56316 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Blue outline- Purcell Mtns.

INTRODUCTION

The Purcell Mountains are most eastern of the Interior Ranges, separated from the Canadian Rockies by the Colombia River Trench (and river). On their east side, the Purcells are bounded by another trench, seen on the road atlas by looking for the Duncan and Beaver rivers. Mount Farnham (3,493m/11,343') is the highest point, east of Invermere, BC.

The Bugaboos are the most popular. Good trails, tecnical summits, and big granite walls. Other sub-ranges, or groups, of the Purcells are The Four Squatters, Farnham Group, Commander Group, Findlay Group (granite), and Leaning Towers (granite).

COLUMBIA TRENCH SPORT CRAGS

The valley containing the official headwaters of the Columbia River is mostly filled with unclimbable glacial till. But a few pieces of bedrock have been found and developed.

Lakit Lake is supposed to have some good lowland sport climbing near Cranbrook, BC.

A bit south of Cranbrook, some good sport climbing has been developed at Moyie Canyon

Up north of Spillamacheen there is supposed to be some low land cragging too.


38 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',13],['5.11',7],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Purcell Mountians:
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Lion's Way   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Wiessner's Route (aka SE Corner)   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 17 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Ears Between   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
Wildflowers   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Surfs Up   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Kraus-McCarthy   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 800'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Paddle Flake Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Furry Pink Arete   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
McTech Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Super Direct   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Energy Crisis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Solitary Confinement   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Feathers
Browse More Classics in Purcell Mountians

Featured Route For Purcell Mountians
Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

Beckey-Chouinard 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : South Howser Tower
This is a Bugaboos mega-classic that draws climbers from around the world and for obvious reasons. It's 2000' tall and has pitch after pitch of 5.8 and 5.9 climbing with short sections of 5.10 thrown in here and there for good measure. The elegant line follows a large buttress that soars up the full height of the west face. This is a full value route with excellent climbing, great position and spectacular views. Not to be missed. P1: From a slab on the right side of the ridge climb up crac...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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