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Purcell Mountians

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Bugaboos, The 
Vowell/Conrad Groups 

Purcell Mountians  


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Location: 50.1782, -116.56316 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2010
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Climbing Pigeon with Howser behind.

THE PURCELL MOUNTAINS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA,IDAHO AND MONTANA
The dashes are my correction for the mistake on Wi...
The dashes are my correction for the mistake on Wikkipedia (solid pink line)


Located west of Invermere, BC, the highest peak of the Purcells is Mount Farnham (3,493m/11,343'). On the shoulder of Mount Farnham is Farnham Tower; a technical summit made of bad rock. Not the kind of climb to recommend to a Mountain Project user. The link leads to a ski mountaineering story.

The Bugaboo Group is the most popular. Other sub-ranges, or groups, of the Purcells are The Four Squatters, Farnham Group, Commander Group, Findlay Group (granite), and Leaning Towers (granite).
submitted as a clean photo by MP contributor nelso...
submitted as a clean photo by MP contributor nelsonthad, 2014

I painted it because the Great Gendarme rappel is nicely visible

Not much is said about the fabulous Leaning Towers. Justin Scurlock's, an extreme mountain flyer and photographer, has published exactly the photos that Mountain Project people like. Once on the pbase.com page, scroll down at bit to find the Purcell folder.

LOWLAND CRAGS OF THE PURCELL RANGE

The valley containing the official headwaters of the Columbia River is mostly filled with unclimbable glacial till. But a few pieces of solid bedrock have been found and developed. Modern developers have given the gift of lowland sport crags.By the way, Lakit Lake and Spillamacheen are actually part of the Canadian Rockies of British Columbia, not the Columbia Mountains or Kootenays. I put them here because both Spillamacheen and Lakit Lake part of the local neighborhood.

Lakit Lake is a well developed lowland sport climbing near Cranbrook, BC.
Lakit Lake Sport Crag  submitted by MP contributor...
Lakit Lake Sport Crag

submitted by MP contributor bobzerl, 2014

A bit south of Cranbrook, some good sport climbing has been developed at Moyie Canyon. No one has posted any beta for Moyie on Mountain Project (yet, 2015). The link should take the curious to rockclimbing.com.

A little north of Radium Hot springs, the town of Spillamacheen has a nearby crag rumored to have lots of big hueco style hand holds. The chat at the crags indicates that this jug haul climbing area is actually on the Canadian Rockies side of the Columbia River Trench. Spillamacheen is included here, on the Purcell Mountains page, because it is very convenient for climbers visiting the Bugaboos.

Stone Hill, Montana, has a good supply of truly roadside climbs on excellent quartzite. Stone Hill is located along Montana Highway 37, on the east side of Lake Koocanusa. Some of the routes are on the margin of the busy road, others are less exposed to the noise and traffic.
Room With A View (5.10a) @ Stone Hill, MT  submitt...
Room With A View (5.10a) @ Stone Hill, MT

submitted by MP contributor Ulrich Taubenschuss, 2012


Climbing Season



Weather station 21.7 miles from here

44 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',14],['5.11',10],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Purcell Mountians:
South Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, Alpine   The Bugaboos : Brenta Spire
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Lion's Way   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
Wiessner's Route (aka SE Corner)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 17 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Ears Between   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Wildflowers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Surfs Up   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Kraus-McCarthy   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 800'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Paddle Flake Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Furry Pink Arete   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Super Direct   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Cooper-Kor   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 1000'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
McTech Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Solitary Confinement   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Feathers
Energy Crisis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Browse More Classics in Purcell Mountians

Featured Route For Purcell Mountians
The start of Surfs Up. It's easy to wander around ...

Surfs Up 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  North America : Canada : ... : Snowpatch Spire
A popular climb on the right side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire, Surfs Up follows broken cracks on somewhat poor rock for three pitches to Surfs Up ledge, then finishes with another two or three pitches of beautiful cracks on excellent granite.Begin at the right side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire, near the Pigeon icefall. Climb 3 pitches of indistinct cracks leading up and right to an alcove. Protection is somewhat limited but the climbing is easy. Many parties get lost and climb up...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Purcell Mountians Slideshow Add Photo
Bugaboo on the North East Ridge.
Bugaboo on the North East Ridge.

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