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San Ysidro
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Applied Magnetics T,TR 
Chavez/Mosher T 
Daddy's Girl S 
Enigmatic Voyage TR 
Face Lift T 
Fine Line T 
Gnome Fingers T 
Great Race S,TR 
Haunted by Waters S 
Heckling, The T,TR 
Many Happy Returns T,TR 
Orangahang T,TR 
Peels of Laughter T 
Puny Prow T,TR 
Return On Investment T 
Rick's Route T 
Rockocco T 
Scrub Job T 
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 
Weeny Roofs, The T 
Young William T 

Puny Prow 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Hendricks (1983)
Page Views: 338
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 19, 2009

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Drew climbs Puny Prow at San Ysidro in Santa Barba...

Description 

The arete and face to the left of Vanishing Flakes. A suitable alternative when San Ysidro is crowded.

Start by the Oak tree on the left-side of the arete. Climb up the left side and angle right, joining the right-side of the arete about 10 feet up. It is possible to place a Tri-Cam in a pocket before setting off on the runout face above. There is a hangerless Rawl about 15 feet higher. Continue on the runout face to the top, avoiding the crack that forms the top of Rockoco & Vanishing Flakes (although it is possible and quite appealing to step right and place gear).

Location 

Starts in the gully, below a substantial oak tree, left of Vanishing Flakes.

Protection 

Tri-cam, one hangerless bolt (clip with a rivet hanger or a wired-stopper). Belay from the small oak atop the route, or use the bolts atop Rockoco/Flakes.


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By Richard Shore
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Other than maybe one move getting established into the huge hueco about 15' up, I never felt like there was a 5.10 move on this route. However, I did lead Vanishing Flakes immediately beforehand so all the holds seemed HUGE! I can't really justify giving this route an R rating, either. You can get a good purple #0 TCU at the start, then cinch the hangerless bolt, and maybe 10' above that a good #1 or #2 camalot in a shallow crack. The "runout" face (15' maybe?) above felt like 5.7 at most. There is also a newish bolt at the very top that provides a nice directional for your follower before traversing right to the anchors atop Rockocco/VF.