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Drew climbs Puny Prow at San Ysidro in Santa Barba...
The arete and face to the left of Vanishing Flakes. A suitable alternative when San Ysidro is crowded.
Start by the Oak tree on the left-side of the arete. Climb up the left side and angle right, joining the right-side of the arete about 10 feet up. It is possible to place a Tri-Cam in a pocket before setting off on the runout face above. There is a hangerless Rawl about 15 feet higher. Continue on the runout face to the top, avoiding the crack that forms the top of Rockoco & Vanishing Flakes (although it is possible and quite appealing to step right and place gear).
Starts in the gully, below a substantial oak tree, left of Vanishing Flakes.
Tri-cam, one hangerless bolt (clip with a rivet hanger or a wired-stopper). Belay from the small oak atop the route, or use the bolts atop Rockoco/Flakes.
By Richard Shore
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Other than maybe one move getting established into the huge hueco about 15' up, I never felt like there was a 5.10 move on this route. However, I did lead Vanishing Flakes immediately beforehand so all the holds seemed HUGE! I can't really justify giving this route an R rating, either. You can get a good purple #0 TCU at the start, then cinch the hangerless bolt, and maybe 10' above that a good #1 or #2 camalot in a shallow crack. The "runout" face (15' maybe?) above felt like 5.7 at most. There is also a newish bolt at the very top that provides a nice directional for your follower before traversing right to the anchors atop Rockocco/VF.