Punk Rock is located on the south side of Tunnel 2. There are two ways into this area, the tyrolean at Wall of the Nineties, or walking in along the base of River Wall. I engineered the River Wall approach, on the east side of Tunnel 2, in the winter of 2000, by sliding large blocks of rock over the ice. This approach is usable after spring runoff. It is a pleasant alternative to the tyrolean if you don't mind getting wet or an easy stroll in the winter when the river is frozen.
Further along the railbed is a short, white, quartzite cliff, Wannabee Wall, where I bolted two micro-routes. The leftmost is Wannabee Too 10b, and on the right is Wannabee One, 11a.
These two areas are a pleasant outdoor place to climb as you can't hear the roar of the road. All routes are better than they look except for Never Mind the Bollocks, which describes it pretty well.
The routes here are (L=>R): A. Never Mind the Bollocks, 12a/b, 1p, 60', bolts - may be very friable and loose. B. Sex Pistol, 12a/b, 1p, 75', bolts. C. Johnny Rotten, 11a/b, 1p, 95', bolts - it's a lot cleaner than in its earlier days.
Walk along the base of River Wall (water shoes are useful), east side of Tunnel 2, or use the tyrolean approached from the Wall of the Nineties side of Tunnel 2.
Sex Pistol, is the middle line on Punk Rock and has two 5.12 cruxes. The first 5.12 crux is traversing left through bulges past bolt 5 with a good rest under the roof. Climbing above the roof is a hard 11+ move, but now you encountered more 12 climbing up the red groove on the face for some very thin, elegant moves. Escape left out the groove at bolt 10, then up and back right passing two more bolts for a 5.10 airy finish to the anchors. Many people miss the second and best part of the route a...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Went to Irok this past weekend, but had trouble locating routes. The furthest-right route we saw had "11b" chalked at the bottom, but the hangers were missing. The climb took a left-angling line to a ledge with a huge block to the right. The anchor was set back on the ledge.
No sign of the 9 or 10d; but the harder routes on the "lower" wall were all intact.
Did the FA nab some of the hangers on these routes in hopes of greener pastures? Whoever took the hangers was awful polite; they even screwed the nuts back on the bolts.
There is another crag in this area as you walk down the path. It is closer to the river on the right. I think it has been dubbed Punk Rock. When I was there last year, there were 3-4 routes being devolped with chalked arks at the base rating difficulty. They all look good but neede some cleaning at that time.
Thanks for the clarification, guys. I was indeed at "Punk Rock". Somehow, the topo for the left side of Irok seemed to match some of the features at Punk Rock. Theres also a short cliff by the river along the approach, 2 climbs here.