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Punk Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Jonny Rotten 
Never Mind the Bollocks 
Sex Pistol 

Punk Rock 


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Location: 39.7373, -105.325 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,434
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Keith Ainsworth on Sep 18, 2006
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Punk Rock.

Description 

Punk Rock is located on the south side of Tunnel 2. There are two ways into this area, the tyrolean at Wall of the Nineties, or walking in along the base of River Wall. I engineered the River Wall approach, on the east side of Tunnel 2, in the winter of 2000, by sliding large blocks of rock over the ice. This approach is usable after spring runoff. It is a pleasant alternative to the tyrolean if you don't mind getting wet or an easy stroll in the winter when the river is frozen.

Punk Rock is the first area encountered using the River Wall approach. Here I bolted three lines, Never Mind the Bollocks, (unfinished), Sex Pistol, 12a/b, and Johnny Rotten, 11a/b.

Further along the railbed is a short, white, quartzite cliff, Wannabee Wall, where I bolted two micro-routes. The leftmost is Wannabee Too 10b, and on the right is Wannabee One, 11a.

These two areas are a pleasant outdoor place to climb as you can't hear the roar of the road. All routes are better than they look except for Never Mind the Bollocks, which describes it pretty well.

The routes here are (L=>R):
A. Never Mind the Bollocks, 12a/b, 1p, 60', bolts - may be very friable and loose.
B. Sex Pistol, 12a/b, 1p, 75', bolts.
C. Johnny Rotten, 11a/b, 1p, 95', bolts - it's a lot cleaner than in its earlier days.


Getting There 

Walk along the base of River Wall (water shoes are useful), east side of Tunnel 2, or use the tyrolean approached from the Wall of the Nineties side of Tunnel 2.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Punk Rock:
Jonny Rotten   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Browse More Classics in Punk Rock

Featured Route For Punk Rock
Jon trying to get solid on the gritty traverse left to get to the 5th bolt.

Sex Pistol 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a  CO : Golden : ... : Punk Rock
Sex Pistol, is the middle line on Punk Rock and has two 5.12 cruxes. The first 5.12 crux is traversing left through bulges past bolt 5 with a good rest under the roof. Climbing above the roof is a hard 11+ move, but now you encountered more 12 climbing up the red groove on the face for some very thin, elegant moves. Escape left out the groove at bolt 10, then up and back right passing two more bolts for a 5.10 airy finish to the anchors. Many people miss the second and best part of the route a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Punk Rock Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 8, 2003

Went to Irok this past weekend, but had trouble locating routes. The furthest-right route we saw had "11b" chalked at the bottom, but the hangers were missing. The climb took a left-angling line to a ledge with a huge block to the right. The anchor was set back on the ledge.

No sign of the 9 or 10d; but the harder routes on the "lower" wall were all intact.

Did the FA nab some of the hangers on these routes in hopes of greener pastures? Whoever took the hangers was awful polite; they even screwed the nuts back on the bolts.

ST

By Tod Anderson
Aug 13, 2003

It is possible that you were at a different crag. There is another unpublished crag in the same vicinity that I'm told has a route or two with no hangers. Irok is a bit of a walk up the hill.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 15, 2003

There is another crag in this area as you walk down the path. It is closer to the river on the right. I think it has been dubbed Punk Rock. When I was there last year, there were 3-4 routes being devolped with chalked arks at the base rating difficulty. They all look good but neede some cleaning at that time.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2003

Thanks for the clarification, guys. I was indeed at "Punk Rock". Somehow, the topo for the left side of Irok seemed to match some of the features at Punk Rock. Theres also a short cliff by the river along the approach, 2 climbs here.

There's lots of rock around there....

ST