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The Monkey House
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Psycho Hose Beast S 
Punishment For Shoplifting S 
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Punishment For Shoplifting 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 1,476
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 13, 2001

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Just through the hard start on Punishment for Shop...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Punishment for Shoplifting starts 15 - 20 feet left of the blackish water streak that has Psycho Hose Beast running right up it. A slightly airy first clip with a burly move launches the route. Follow up a corner/seam system for six or seven clips on great stone, well protected, and equipped with a host of good moves. Edges and laybacks. The exit at the top of the corner/seam seemed a bit spooky inasmuch as the moves were a bit in-obvious, however, a near horizontal crack just below the anchors will provide a fine answer for the finish, if you look around for the feet. This fine line is well worth two stars, and well worth the short hike.

Protection 

QDs only. This 70 foot route needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

Good route. The crux is after the 1st bolt, although the finish is not obvious. There is lots of deciphering for such a short route. Full value.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 30, 2002

Has anyone been on the route directly to the left of this route? It is a great route, slightly overhanging at the bottom to a sweet face crux at the top. 8 bolts to anchors. Probably 12d? Anyone?
By richard magill
Sep 9, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun and a bit spooky in places. Lots of slightly, slopey holds.
By richard magill
Sep 9, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I also got on the 12 just left of this route. Great line: 3 stars. Rolofson's guide lists it as a "5.12? project". I was thinking 12b or 12c, but I don't know - it has a wicked crux.

Does anyone know the name or ostensible rating or whether or not it is still a project? It seems unlikely that it hasn't been sent yet. I didn't send it - but I will soon.
By Greaser
Sep 9, 2004

Richard, it has been red pointed, I sent it a few years ago (if we are talking about the same route) and I'm sure others have done so as well. [Equivalent] to a good [Shelf Road] 12b to me (not as hard as Oxamoxa, though). I am 6' with a slight positive ape index and it did make me stretch a bit. Great route.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Apr 8, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Lots of deciphering. Easy to get pumped out on the not so obvious finish. Not nearly as fun as Reefer Madness down the slope or Schwing Salute.
By dan scales
From: Denver, CO
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Ok climb. Got on it today, was pretty wet at the ledge traverse. Scared me a little, heady. All in all, fun.
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
May 3, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

That last traverse was scary! Damn!
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Apr 13, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Ya, the traverse got me spooked as well. Super fun, do it!