Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Checkerboard Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Checkmate T,S 
Circus Finish T 
Cross-trainer T,S 
Green Thumb T 
King Me T,S 
Knight's Move T 
Lone Piton T 
Pawn's Promotion T 
Punch In The Nose T 
Ring Leader T 
Ring Route T 
Sotol Roof T 
Worth the Effort T 
Unsorted Routes:

Punch In The Nose 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 969
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Mar 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Show's the approach gully plus 1st, 3rd, 4th, and ...

Description 

P1: From the table-top ledge, head pretty much straight up towards the roof to the left of the blue line in this Photo. Set a belay somewhere below the roof. 5.4, ~70 feet? [If you set the belay above the roof, there is some risk of a gear belay set around a detached block and a stance within striking distance of a fall from the crux.]

P2: Bypass the roof on its right. Stand on detached block above the roof and ponder the crux. A move or two sees the leader to easier terrain including face / slab climbing past two or three horizontal cracks. Set the belay on a large horizontal crack 5 or 10 feet to the right of a bunch of stick bushes of about a coffin-sized volume. 5.8? ~70 feet? Note: there used to be a good crimper up above for the crux move; it broke off; instead, think "bear hug".

P3: Head up vertical cracks until one can traverse right on a large horizontal crack (3 or 4 inch) for about 8 feet. Face climb up on runout terrain for about 25 feet to a large and flat belay platform with bomber chockstone way at the back. 5.5, ~70 feet?

P3: Traverse right and later up for about 70 feet into a huge cleft or alcove with a substantial roof system. One can use one or two bolts of Cross-trainer along the way. Belay on a very comfortable perch immediately up and right of the alcove - 4 inch and 2 inch gear for anchor. 5.4, unsure pitch length.

P4: Very short - traverse right along a very large crack / ledge for about 30 feet and then up again about as much to a boulder field and belay.

We linked P3 and P4 using a 70 meter rope. Not sure whether a 60 meter rope would make it.

Location 

Locate the gully in the photo and scramble up about 100 feet. A belay anchor can be set up on a table-top ledge a little to the right.

Protection 

Standard rack up to 5 inches. No fixed belay anchors (nor are any needed). Medium sized Trango Ball Nutz and/or BD C3 will protect the crux.


Comments on Punch In The Nose Add Comment
Show which comments
By JasonMills
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 4, 2011

Looking at the beta photo, does the gully/crack system not go? It looks like you could just keep going up that to the second belay.

I haven't climbed down here yet, just looking at the beta.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Dec 7, 2011

Went back and climbed this again. Updated the route on the photo and the description. For P1 & P2,stay away from the gully / crack system on the left and from vertical cracks to the right. P1 and P2 are largely face and slab climbing.
By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jul 29, 2012

I found #4 Camelot in the hueco useful for protecting the crux, which I climb to the left of the hueco on small holds. Except for the crux, the entire route is in the 5.6 range or below.
By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 15, 2013

It is possible to avoid the crux by heading farther right from Pitch 1 belay and running Pitch 2 up the prominent flaring vertical crack to a narrow ledge. A short traverse to the right will take you to another crack, this one leading to a large, comfortable ledge at the Lunch Ledge level. This is a good location for a Pitch 2 belay.

A crack leading up can take you to the standard route or you can walk left to it on the ledge. (You can also easily walk over to the right to Cross-trainer Lunch Ledge.)

I have stayed in the cracks almost all the way, the only exception being the start of the flaring crack where I took the bulge to the left using convenient huecos. The climbing was in the same 5.8+ to 5.9- range as the original crux but had the advantage of being protectable throughout.
By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Aug 28, 2013

Alternative start:

The route can be started directly from the slab to the left of start of Cross-trainer. Go up the bulge just left of the old ocotillo along narrow cracks. It's about 5.7, a mostly protectable alternative to scrambling.

With the crux being 5.8 or better, it makes sense to look for ways to spice up the rest of the route some, and this is one alternative. The pitch can be led all the way to the normal location of Pitch 1 belay some 20 feet or so below the large block.