Punch In The Nose 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | ?? |
| Submitted By: | Bill Lawry on Mar 18, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Show's the approach gully plus 1st, 3rd, 4th, and ...
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Description P1: From the table-top ledge, head pretty much straight up towards the roof to the left of the blue line in this Photo. Set a belay somewhere below the roof. 5.4, ~70 feet? [If you set the belay above the roof, there is some risk of a gear belay set around a detached block and a stance within striking distance of a fall from the crux.]
P2: Bypass the roof on its right. Stand on detached block above the roof and ponder the crux. A move or two sees the leader to easier terrain including face / slab climbing past two or three horizontal cracks. Set the belay on a large horizontal crack 5 or 10 feet to the right of a bunch of stick bushes of about a coffin-sized volume. 5.8? ~70 feet? Note: there used to be a good crimper up above for the crux move; it broke off; instead, think "bear hug".
P3: Head up vertical cracks until one can traverse right on a large horizontal crack (3 or 4 inch) for about 8 feet. Face climb up on runout terrain for about 25 feet to a large and flat belay platform with bomber chockstone way at the back. 5.5, ~70 feet?
P3: Traverse right and later up for about 70 feet into a huge cleft or alcove with a substantial roof system. One can use one or two bolts of Cross-trainer along the way. Belay on a very comfortable perch immediately up and right of the alcove - 4 inch and 2 inch gear for anchor. 5.4, unsure pitch length.
P4: Very short - traverse right along a very large crack / ledge for about 30 feet and then up again about as much to a boulder field and belay.
We linked P3 and P4 using a 70 meter rope. Not sure whether a 60 meter rope would make it.
Location Locate the gully in the photo and scramble up about 100 feet. A belay anchor can be set up on a table-top ledge a little to the right.
Protection Standard rack up to 5 inches. No fixed belay anchors (nor are any needed). Medium sized Trango Ball Nutz and/or BD C3 will protect the crux.
| Comments on Punch In The Nose |
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By JasonMills
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 4, 2011
| Looking at the beta photo, does the gully/crack system not go? It looks like you could just keep going up that to the second belay.
I haven't climbed down here yet, just looking at the beta. |
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Dec 7, 2011
| Went back and climbed this again. Updated the route on the photo and the description. For P1 & P2,stay away from the gully / crack system on the left and from vertical cracks to the right. P1 and P2 are largely face and slab climbing. |
By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jul 29, 2012
| I found #4 Camelot in the hueco useful for protecting the crux, which I climb to the left of the hueco on small holds. Except for the crux, the entire route is in the 5.6 range or below. |
By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 15, 2013
| It is possible to avoid the crux by heading farther right on Pitch 1 and running Pitch 2 up the prominent vertical crack system all the way to where it peters out and a short, broad ramp leads left to the standard route. I have stayed in the crack almost all the way, with one exception when I took the bulge to the left using convenient huecos. Some of the moves did require crack holds. Climbers not comfortable with those could aid those moves using cams. The climbing is in 5.7 range max and is protectable throughout. |
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