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Pumphouse Wash

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Lower Pumphouse Wash 
Ultimates/Mexican Pocket, The 

Pumphouse Wash  

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Elevation: 5,500'
Location: 35.03379, -111.71986 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,203
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
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Jonathan Mosher on the second ascent of Pumphouse ...


tributary canyon to Oak Creek Canyon, offers many sandstone sport and trad routes.

"Pumphouse Wash is a splendid canyon, and a local gem for it's beauty, and the climbing is pretty good to boot! With it's close proximity to town, plunge pools, carved walls, and towering sandstone cliffs this place has it all for a rompy day out and about.

Both Kelly and James Canyon run into Pumphouse as it tumbles off the rim. James Canyon is a good, technical canyoneering route, while Kelly has some fantastic bouldering. Pumphouse Wash proper holds the "Ultimates", which are well known classics for the area. In the last few years there has been some development of sport routes in Lower Pumphouse Wash before it joins Oak Creek Canyon at the bottom of the swithbacks on 89A."

JJ Schlick

Getting There 

accessible from bottom of switch backs on 89a, or Easiest entrance to the Ultimates is from the top of Ultimate Frisbee. Exit I-17 at Newman Park, drive about 2miles then turn Right, follow this trek about a mile til the canyon is in view. park at cairns and hike 0.07mi to the rap station at: N35*02.158 W111*42.825

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.7 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pumphouse Wash:
Centerfold   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Unnamed 5.8 sport   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Tap It   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 60'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Teddy Bear's Picnic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke...
Young Guns   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 70'   The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke...
Pumphouse Primer   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke...
Unnamed 5.10 crack.   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Unamed Cove 5.10   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Unamed 5.10c   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Ultimate Dihedral   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke...
Unnamed 5.11a mixed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
White Wedding   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke...
Ultimate Finger Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 165'   The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke...
Browse More Classics in Pumphouse Wash

Featured Route For Pumphouse Wash
FA of Young Guns, May 2013

Young Guns 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke...
This short route has excellent climbing at a surprisingly moderate grade, featuring great pro, secure jams, wild coconino face features, and foot holds; all in under 80 feet. Though short, it is nearly a four star classic for the area and grade.A steep start leads to a finger crack and stem-box. Work up through a flare and right into a right-facing corner and continue on amazing finger locks and varied jams to a two bolt rap anchor on a ledge....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

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