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Pumphouse Wash

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James Canyon 
Lower Pumphouse Wash 
Ultimates, The 

Pumphouse Wash Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,500'
Location: 35.03379, -111.71986 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 68,566
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
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Tributary canyon to Oak Creek Canyon, offers many sandstone sport and trad routes.

Pumphouse Wash is a splendid canyon, and a local gem for it's beauty, and the climbing is pretty good to boot! With it's close proximity to town, plunge pools, carved walls, and towering sandstone cliffs this place has it all for a rompy day out and about.

Both Kelly and James Canyon run into Pumphouse as it tumbles off the rim. James Canyon is a good, technical canyoneering route, while Kelly has some fantastic bouldering. Pumphouse Wash proper holds the "Ultimates", which are well known classics for the area. In the last few years there has been some development of sport routes in Lower Pumphouse Wash before it joins Oak Creek Canyon at the bottom of the swithbacks on 89A.

Getting There 

accessible from bottom of switch backs on 89a, or Easiest entrance to the Ultimates is from the top of Ultimate Frisbee. Exit I-17 at Newman Park, drive about 2miles then turn Right, follow this trek about a mile til the canyon is in view. park at cairns and hike 0.07mi to the rap station at: N35*02.158 W111*42.825

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.7 miles from here

30 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Pumphouse Wash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pumphouse Wash:
Centerfold   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Tap It   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 60'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Unnamed 5.8 sport   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Young Guns   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 70'   The Ultimates
Teddy Bear's Picnic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Ultimates
Pumphouse Primer   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Ultimates
Unnamed 5.10 crack.   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Unamed Cove 5.10   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Unamed 5.10c   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Unamed 5.10+   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
Ultimate Dihedral   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   The Ultimates
Unnamed 5.11a mixed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lower Pumphouse Wash
White Wedding   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   The Ultimates
The Ultimator   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 70'   The Ultimates
Ultimate Finger Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 165'   The Ultimates
Twist of Fate   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 215'   The Ultimates
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pumphouse Wash

Featured Route For Pumphouse Wash
Rock Climbing Photo: In the crux of Twist of Fate Photo: Blake McCord

Twist of Fate 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : The Ultimates
UPDATE 10/3/12: “This coveted route was first aid climbed by Chris Thornley on rope-solo in 1996, just around the corner from the popular and excellent Ultimate Finger Crack. Since then, standing on top of the boulder, some have imagined, stared, and speculated the Fate of this route going free. Even fewer have ventured up with aiders, having realized the unforgiving fragility of thin Coconino cracks as a means to continue their sandy adventure for two more moderate free pitches. Specula...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

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