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 ADVANCED
Pumphouse & downhill
Select Route:
19th Fairway or 9th Hole 
Pumphouse Falls T 

Pumphouse Falls 

WI3-4

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus: WI3-4 [details]
FA: unknown-local classic
Season: All Winter
Page Views: 3,502
Submitted By: William McCullar on Jan 31, 2003

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Nice day to play.

Description 

This is a Vail classic that is normally in when others are not. It is often confused with the 19th Fairway. This climb is in a deeper gully to the East of the 19th Fairway. Parking is at the Golf Course Pumphouse which stands alone between Aspen Lane and the rest of the Golf Course Residents. Cross the telemark trails and go directky up the gully. In deep snow this ascent can take 45 minutes or more.The climb is 60-70 feet and a great place to practice lead. The middle line is closer to WI 4 while the outside lines provide poorer ice, but easier angle. There is a belay station to the left and a backboard even further left. The only hazard might be the deceptive shelf below the middle line which can catch even a moderate lead fall. Be safe.

Protection 

This is a fat route with thick ice. The more gradual line to the left tend to be more rotten ice, but even our stubbies held. 6-10 screws can safely lead this line.

Toprope Protection 

We've used V-threads to toprope directly off the ice. There are also some trees to the left and maybe 20 feet back from the main lines.

Approach time 

25-35 minutes.

Elevation gain on approach 

600 feet.


Photos of Pumphouse Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Myself leading the climb on 12/31/03 belayed by Russell McCullar.
Myself leading the climb on 12/31/03 belayed by Ru...
Ross on 12/19/2009.
BETA PHOTO: Ross on 12/19/2009.
Climbing Pumphouse 2/6/07 (photo by Aaron Shileikis).
Climbing Pumphouse 2/6/07 (photo by Aaron Shileiki...
Pumphouse Falls from Frontage Road near the Pumphouse.
Pumphouse Falls from Frontage Road near the Pumpho...
Aaron Shileikis climbing Pumphouse 2/6/07. A 'bit steeper than normal.
Aaron Shileikis climbing Pumphouse 2/6/07. A 'bit ...
At the parking for Pumphouse.
At the parking for Pumphouse.
Eric Sutfin on Pumphouse in very thick conditions 12/06.
Eric Sutfin on Pumphouse in very thick conditions ...
A head on view.
A head on view.

Comments on Pumphouse Falls Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Battin
Feb 16, 2004

Great fun. Wide, deep, and blue.
By matt tredway
Feb 1, 2005

I climbed the pumphouse on Sunday, Jan 30. The ice was good,still a little brittle. Building on the left side. Spiral Stairs looked a little kicked out, but still in.
By Lee Jenkins
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Dec 30, 2005

Climbed this route on Weds. Lots of snow/postholing on the approach. Probably even more so now.... The left side was brittle and the middle was fat with some running water. There is a 2 bolt anchor in the rock with slings and rings at the top of the ramp (left of center). One 60m rope just makes the rappel.
By Teigon S.
Jan 3, 2012

There are actually bolts on the big boulder about 10-15 ft back from the top of the falls on the right side. Tons of webbing and a few rap rings are fixed to the big hangers. I am going up there next Monday and was going to see if there is a way to hike up and around to the top to drop a rope. Anyone know if that route is pretty safe? I've only climbed here once and it seemed accessible....
By jjjust
Dec 6, 2013