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Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) T 
Bryant Gumbel T 
Grandpa Gander T 
Granny Goose T 
Jane Pauley T 
Jon Crowley T 
Left Route T 
Middle Hand of Darkness T,TR 
Mother Goose T 
Pump Up the Volume T 
Right Route T 
Stake Your Claim T 
To Air Is Human T 
Uncle Fester T 
Whistling Sphincter TR 
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Pump Up the Volume 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 3/90
Page Views: 362
Submitted By: Locker on Sep 11, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Left Hand of Darkness


This route starts off of a boulder between Bryant Gumbel and Grandpa Gander and features very thin friction moves with very little in the way of holds. Put on your good shoes for this one! As with all routes on this formation, relatively easy walkoff towards entrance road to Lost Horse.


This is a three bolt thin friction route. There are no anchors on top. Small to medium pro for anchor. Hexes, Tricams, SLCD's all work well.

Photos of Pump Up the Volume Slideshow Add Photo
"Pump Up The Volume". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Pump Up The Volume". Photo by Blitzo.
Fred Batliner leading.
Fred Batliner leading.

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By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Sep 12, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

a year or so back I hung all over the bolts trying to get this one. Yesterday we top roped it and again..I flailed!!! This thing is thin and takes smooth movement. It is very much Jtree friction all the way! Easy to set up a top rope inside a little hole in the rocks on top (Tight squeeze however) Most pro works well in the small to medium range. After giving this one a shot redirect rope via bolts to the right and have at Grandpa Gander 5.10cR that some found the start more difficult that this route................over and out! Eee Aww Keeeee!!!
By 72HW
Feb 19, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Bald like a newborns' butt, thin like a 29 Palms tweaker and fun as heck on TR. Would like to see it led, but man, it's not within my ken to do it! Hung like crazy at the crux, found the key to be using obvious crimps in an un-obvious way and a very helpful right foot micro edge. Way balancey, way frictiony and prolly one of the hardest things I've clawed my way up to date. Highly recommended!
By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 17, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Critical smears and tiny crimps - for quite a few moves made this seem harder than 5.11a to me. Should've picked a nice cold day I guess.
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