Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Snowshed Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial 
Alvin's Route (TR) 
Bell Bottom Blues 
Bottomless Topless 
Brain Child 
Bypass 
Cannibals 
Composure 
Conform or Be Cast Out 
Crack of the Eighties 
Devaluation 
Devaluation Direct 
Disciples Of the New Wave 
Farewell to Arms 
Hair and Now 
Hair Lip 
Hair Shirt 
Jam Session 
Karl's Gym 
Little Feat 
Manic Depression 
Missing Mind 
Molar Concentration 
Mole's Corner 
Monkey Paws 
Night Country 
Nova Express 
Palsy 
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster 
Panic in Detroit 
Pea Soup 
Peter Principle 
Pump Lust 
Rage Reduction 
Rapid Transit 
Rick and Eric's 
Sanitation Crack 
Side Effect 
Split Pea 
Telegraph Crack 
Thing, The 
Two Fingers Gold 
Unknown (5.10d) 
Unknown 5.7 
Welcome to My Nightmare 

Pump Lust 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Harrison Decker 1987
Page Views: 925
Submitted By: Rob Eison on Dec 24, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Greg Kerzhner on Pump Lust 13b.

Description 

This incredible line is even better than Cannibals and my favorite sport climb in the Tahoe vicinity. Start the same as Cannibals but after the second bolt float straight up with brilliant sequences utilizing high friction crimps, opposing side pulls and slopers, and a few deceptively flaring pods. Again the footwork will determine success or agony. Trust the crystals and an obligatory heelhook. Slightly runout but easier climbing leads to a 12a finger and hands crack system for the second half of the climb which may leave you whipping and whimpering if you don't work out the sweet spots.


Protection 

7 or 8 bolts and 2 for the anchors.

This has also seen at least 2 all trad ascents that I know of and is felt to be at least 5.13b R with the first piece probably 20-25 feet off the deck. Nico Favresse may have claimed the first around 2006 but I'm not certain.



Comments on Pump Lust Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sim
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 30, 2012

1st trad was Charlie Barrett, I believe. 2nd was Josh Horniak.

By John Jackson
Sep 6, 2012

First ascent, which was done without bolts, was Harrison Decker 1987 (Doubt anyone else would have done it previous to that) Retro bolted early 90s, with fa party permission.

By Rob Eison
From: Denver, CO
Sep 15, 2012

Thanks for the clarifications guys. Was Harrison's FA on gear or TR? I didn't think to ask him when I met him up there a few years back. Pretty amazing if it was on gear because it's really heady and quite runout at the beginning and after the crux. I knew Josh had led it on gear around the same time as Nico but I'd forgotten his last name when I posted this. Sorry Josh.

By John Jackson
Sep 16, 2012

On gear from what I was told, though it was third hand and I didn't confirm it directly with the first ascentionist. A proud line on gear!