Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Snowshed Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial S 
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 
Bell Bottom Blues T 
Bottomless Topless T,TR 
Brain Child S 
Bypass T 
Cannibals S 
Composure T 
Conform or Be Cast Out S 
Crack of the Eighties T 
Devaluation T 
Devaluation Direct T 
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 
Farewell to Arms T 
Hair and Now S 
Hair Lip T 
Hair Shirt T,TR 
Jam Session T 
Karl's Gym T 
Little Feat S,TR 
Manic Depression T 
Missing Mind S 
Molar Concentration T 
Mole's Corner T 
Monkey Paws T,TR 
Night Country T 
Nova Express T 
Palsy T,TR 
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 
Panic in Detroit T,TR 
Pea Soup T 
Peter Principle T,TR 
Pump Lust S 
Rage Reduction T 
Rapid Transit T 
Rick and Eric's T 
Sanitation Crack T,TR 
Side Effect T,TR 
Split Pea T 
Telegraph Crack T 
Thing, The T 
Two Fingers Gold T 
Welcome to My Nightmare T 

Pump Lust 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Harrison Decker 1987
Page Views: 1,232
Submitted By: Rob Eison on Dec 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Greg Kerzhner on Pump Lust 13b.

Description 

This incredible line is even better than Cannibals and my favorite sport climb in the Tahoe vicinity. Start the same as Cannibals but after the second bolt float straight up with brilliant sequences utilizing high friction crimps, opposing side pulls and slopers, and a few deceptively flaring pods. Again the footwork will determine success or agony. Trust the crystals and an obligatory heelhook. Slightly runout but easier climbing leads to a 12a finger and hands crack system for the second half of the climb which may leave you whipping and whimpering if you don't work out the sweet spots.

Protection 

7 or 8 bolts and 2 for the anchors.

This has also seen at least 2 all trad ascents that I know of and is felt to be at least 5.13b R with the first piece probably 20-25 feet off the deck. Nico Favresse may have claimed the first around 2006 but I'm not certain.


Comments on Pump Lust Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sim
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 30, 2012

1st trad was Charlie Barrett, I believe. 2nd was Josh Horniak.
By John Jackson
Sep 6, 2012

First ascent, which was done without bolts, was Harrison Decker 1987 (Doubt anyone else would have done it previous to that) Retro bolted early 90s, with fa party permission.
By Rob Eison
From: Denver, CO
Sep 15, 2012

Thanks for the clarifications guys. Was Harrison's FA on gear or TR? I didn't think to ask him when I met him up there a few years back. Pretty amazing if it was on gear because it's really heady and quite runout at the beginning and after the crux. I knew Josh had led it on gear around the same time as Nico but I'd forgotten his last name when I posted this. Sorry Josh.
By John Jackson
Sep 16, 2012

On gear from what I was told, though it was third hand and I didn't confirm it directly with the first ascentionist. A proud line on gear!