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Pump Action 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jerad Friedrichs. Equipped by Bill Gibson.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: Jerad Friedrichs on Aug 6, 2013

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Description 

Pump Action is a superb new extension to Lever Action. This route was bolted by Bill Gibson and was graciously offered as an open project during the 2013 Rifle Climbers' Festival.

Pump Action continues past the anchors of Lever Action climbing the impressive headwall on beautiful blue and gray limestone. Unlike many extensions in Rifle which are short, bouldery, and desperate, Pump Action extends for an additional 7 bolts. This route has a definite crux where body language will help you unlock it more than just pure power!


Protection 

7 bolts from the Lever Action anchors, the crux bolt has a permadraw. There are chain anchors. Use a 70m to lower or rap twice with a 60m at Lever Action's anchors.



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By D-Storm
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

A 60-meter rope is exactly enough to lower from the top. This is a good route on quality rock that will likely clean up and get even better with time. The bolts are very close together, and there's no move that's very hard for a 12c* grade, so this might be a good project for someone who wants to break into harder 5.12s in RMP; I could see it being a good primer for Extended Family in the Ruckman Cave, for example. Just be careful not to Z-clip!

  • Jerad, I think I used different beta that you did there's a hidden crimp in a key spot....

By Jerad Friedrichs
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 8, 2013

That's awesome. I figured the route would beta down with more ascents. Dave Pegg and I both thought somewhere in the 12c vicinity. To my knowledge, there's still been less than 10 ascents, but I think we have all used different beta. I used a hidden undercling in the middle of that column on the left with my left hand and turned my right hip into the wall so I was almost facing out left, and this allowed me to reach up to the good edge on top of the column. I know what you mean with almost z-clipping. I found it hard to clip the permadraw, because it was so close into my chest. So, on the send, I skipped the bolt below and just clipped the permadraw.

By bagwag
Oct 7, 2013

Good job sending Pump Action, everyone! Jerad, you are so psyched, thanks for posting! Lever Action/aka-Downdraft/Pump Action - this could this possibly be the only line in Rifle with 3 names and 3 separate pitches?
The extension is a line I rapped down in 1993 then later wished I had bolted it. Although, last spring, Dave Pegg replanted the seed when he told me it was an open permit project just waiting for a dim-witted masochist, like me, to work on it.