Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Buzzard Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 
Ass Cannibal S 
Bulge, The S 
Buzzard Guts T 
Failure to Communicate S 
Half and Half S 
Kimberly T,S 
Melungian Brotherhood S 
Obscure Adventure T,TR 
Prajapati S 
Pulp Friction S 
Raising Arizona S 
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 
Three Amigos T 
Three Amigos Direct T 
Three Amigos Double Direct T 
Unknown 1 T 

Pulp Friction 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: All year, but hot in the summer
Page Views: 1,514
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Jan 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
looking up pulp friction after clipping the first ...

Description 

Great route to test out your friction climbing. 5.8 climbing though the first four bolts will bring you to the crux and the fifth bolt. A few friction moves and you begin the runout to the finish. Bring some gear if you're not comfortable after the last bolt. It's around thirty feet to the top.

Location 

This route is twenty feet to the right of Three Amigos. It is the first bolted route you will find when descending the climbers' trail. GPS 33850 13838.

Protection 

Five bolts and some pro. There are no fixed anchors so just sling a tree.


Photos of Pulp Friction Slideshow Add Photo
just past the 2nd bolt. some really fun friction c...
just past the 2nd bolt. some really fun friction c...
After ledge and bolt at eyelevel this slab makes y...
BETA PHOTO: After ledge and bolt at eyelevel this slab makes y...

Comments on Pulp Friction Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Maier
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I didn't see five bolts on this route, although that is what this and the PATC guide say. There were enough, at least at the crux. The difficulty varies a lot below the crux if you move a few feet to the right or left.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Jul 15, 2013

I agree. The "hard parts" can be circumvented pretty easily. If you follow the bolt line directly (I didn't see 5 bolts either) it's defintely 5.9 with the thinnest moves IMO between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Eases up significantly after that.
By TyrelJ
From: Alexandria, VA
Aug 11, 2014

Did this route over the weekend, it looks as if it is down to 3 bolts. The empty bolt hole for what should have been the 3rd bolt is fairly obvious, distance between the last two bolts isn't bad, definitely a bit of a runout to the top though.
By Edwin B
Nov 23, 2014

Missing bolt has been replaced. Please let me know if you find any other bolt issues.