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Pulling Up Rope Beta



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By Custer
From Bergen, Hordaland
May 9, 2012
rocktown warmup

Anyone have any tips/suggestions/methods they can help me out with on pulling up the extra rope after the end of a pitch?

Pulling up the slack before putting my second on belay pitch after pitch after pitch after pitch etc... I just get worked. My shoulder is REALLY sore now. I still feel relatively new to longer climbs and I am not a mutant, so I need to save what little strength I have for the descent and the next day's climb!

Should I have my second tie in short? Use a pulley system (?multiple ropes)? Good shoulder stretches/workouts to do before hand?

Or maybe I just need to suck it up and grunt through it- maybe im just getting old... Doing shorter climbs is not an option.


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By Cory
From Boise, ID
May 9, 2012
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fun day in the Hills

How long is your rope? If it's way longer than you need you could go with a shorter one.


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By Marty C
May 9, 2012

Are you pulling the rope up "hand over hand"?

If so, run the rope through a biner at your anchor and pull down on the rope. That will make it much easier on your shoulders.


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By Custer
From Bergen, Hordaland
May 9, 2012
rocktown warmup

Using 60 meter half ropes or 60 meter 10.1mm

Yes pulling hand over hand...


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By John D
May 9, 2012

Do longer pitches, or get a shorter rope. Redirecting so that you can pull down might use different muscles or atleast give you variety so that you're not wearing one set of muscle groups out. Otherwise, I'd think of it as endurance training :)


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By germsauce
May 9, 2012
Hippos kill people

are you trying to pull it through the belay device?
wait till the rope is tight on your partner, then thread it through your ATC.


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By Custer
From Bergen, Hordaland
May 9, 2012
rocktown warmup

Definitely not through the belay device. Hand over hand,then when tight through belay device. Im not quite that dense.

This is only really bad when the pitch is wandering- especailly if its further up the route- like pitch 7 for example.

Maybe I need to avoid leading these pitches and let my partner lead them.


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By agd
May 9, 2012
alaska

Work on minimizing rope drag when placing pro. That will alleviate 99% of the load. If you still find it difficult, work on your shoulder strength because it really shouldn't be that hard without rope drag.


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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
May 10, 2012
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick

I destroyed my shoulder by playing rugby for years, and it helps me to throw a biner above me and pull down. Sometimes different muscles just mean different pain, so keep your mind open. Good luck.


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By md3
May 10, 2012

Work out more. Get stronger.


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
May 10, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

If you've minimized rope drag on the way up, and it's not a super short pitch, it shouldn't be that difficult. You could redirect like Marty suggested. Or if it's that big of a deal, like you're leading every single pitch and pulling slack, you could slap a mini trax on your anchor- then you'd have a pulley (which should make it a little easier) with progress capture so you can just let go when your shoulders get exhausted, plus you're still redirected for a downward pull. That seems like a bit of overkill to me, but I'm not in your shoes.

Also, find a partner, at least once in a while, that can swing leads with you so you're not leading and pulling up slack on every single pitch. That's all I got.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
May 10, 2012
Hiking some 5.fun in Squish.

alexdavis wrote:
Work on minimizing rope drag when placing pro. That will alleviate 99% of the load. If you still find it difficult, work on your shoulder strength because it really shouldn't be that hard without rope drag.


+1


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By Max Tepfer
From Central Oregon
May 10, 2012

John Wilder wrote:
+1

Yes.

Also, redirecting the rope through the anchor actually doesn't make it easier to pull up rope. It makes it easier to stack it because you can pull it down directly into the pile and also uses different muscles, (as was mentioned) but this comes at the expense of the added friction created by the redirect. (it actually makes it harder to pull up rope) Also, longer pitches won't necessarily make for an easier time pulling up rope. Unless you're on top of your rope drag, (which it sounds like you might not be if your wrecking your shoulder pulling up rope) it's usually harder to pull up rope on a long, wandering pitch than it is on a shorter, 20m pitch. Good luck!


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
May 10, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Max Tepfer wrote:
Also, longer pitches won't necessarily make for an easier time pulling up rope. Unless you're on top of your rope drag, (which it sounds like you might not be if your wrecking your shoulder pulling up rope) it's usually harder to pull up rope on a long, wandering pitch than it is on a shorter, 20m pitch.


Good point. I was thinking in terms of only having a few feet left to pull up after leading a rope-stretcher.


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By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
May 10, 2012
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard

I agree with others who suggest you are doing something wrong in terms of rope drag if you are hurting your shoulder pulling up slack. You shouldn't be hurting and you shouldn't be getting "worked."

It is also possible that your shoulder problems are or were caused by something else and pulling up rope is an activity that now alerts you to the injury.

Although running the rope through an overhead biner might help in terms of changing the pulling biomechanics, it also adds an additional substantial friction point, making the pulling part that much harder.

The simplest way to relieve some of the stress is to pull two hands at a time rather than hand-over-hand.

But I think you should get that shoulder looked at.


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By slim
May 10, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

another option, if you know you are kind of hosed with rope drag and you are going to have to pull up a 100' of it, have your partner just tie in where they are at (ie in the middle) and trail the remaining half.


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By RyanO
From Golden, CO
May 10, 2012

Marty C wrote:
Are you pulling the rope up "hand over hand"? If so, run the rope through a biner at your anchor and pull down on the rope. That will make it much easier on your shoulders.


This is probably the only direct solution for you. Using a mini-T helps too, but it can also mean more time spent with rigging. One setup I use when climbing with a partner that needs a lot of help is a mini-T for a redirect on the anchor, and a gri-gri on me. This allows me to pop my clove off the anchor and lower down to my partner to help with beta, or even just weight the end of the rope to help through a tough section. They are effectively still on belay with the mini-T, yada yada, i'm sure some people won't agree..

Back to the issue with your shoulders.. After an entire season of pulling the rope down from a biner on the anchor I developed severe tendonitis in my elbows. I had to switch back to hand over hand without the biner for a while because of it. Point is that overuse of any one set of muscles is the problem - have a few techniques and switch between them as appropriate.

With lots of rope drag you can also do it with your legs, overhead biner, put the rope around your hip and sit down, rinse and repeat.


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By Copperhead
May 10, 2012

Redirecting will help.Everyone has bigger lats and triceps than rear delts, so it will be easier to pull in rope that way. If you decide to make that part of your routine, a little pulley or a pulley-biner will nearly eliminate the extra friction.

A 10.1 is now considered a burly rope. Try a 9.6.

You should rarely need to pull in 100 feet of slack. If you have that much left, try to combine pitches.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 10, 2012
Darren in the crux of Twist of Fate <br />Photo: Blake McCord

can you set up a 5:1 pulley system?


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By Jonathan Callahan
From The Cascades
May 10, 2012

Maybe a redirect with a DMM Revolver?
dmmclimbing.com/products/revolver/


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By slim
May 11, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

disagree heavily with the revolver idea. i'm assuming you mean to redirect and belay the 2nd. if the 2nd comes off at the near the top of the pitch (where there isn't much rope drag), the lack of friction at the revolver is going to make it hard to control the belayer from getting pulled into the redirect.


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By Derek Doucet
May 11, 2012

slim wrote:
disagree heavily with the revolver idea. i'm assuming you mean to redirect and belay the 2nd. if the 2nd comes off at the near the top of the pitch (where there isn't much rope drag), the lack of friction at the revolver is going to make it hard to control the belayer from getting pulled into the redirect.


This thread has nothing to do with redirected belays. The topic under discussion is efficiently pulling up the excess rope at the end of a pitch before placing your second on belay. Some folks like to redirect through the anchor to do so, and a Revolver would certainly make that technique more efficient. I wouldn't personally carry one just for this purpose, but hey, YMMV.

As for using a Revolver as the redirect point in a redirected belay, I agree completely: bad idea.


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By Jonathan Callahan
From The Cascades
May 11, 2012

slim wrote:
disagree heavily with the revolver idea. i'm assuming you mean to redirect and belay the 2nd.


You're assuming wrong. The revolver is simply addressing the OP's problem of pulling up rope before putting the second on belay and not a function of how to belay the second up.


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By slim
May 11, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

ok, just wanted to clarify that. from your original post, it didn't really say to use it to pull the rope up, and then remove it. every once in a while a thread will pop up about toprope belaying and someone will recommend using a revolver at the anchor.


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By Copperhead
May 12, 2012

I use a small pulley to do exactly what several suggested when I am solo aiding and stacking my rope in a rope bucket. Works like a charm. Sometimes I do the redirect off of my chest harnes. No 5:1 required.


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