Classic except for the skirt start, this problem has some of the very best rock and features at Priest Draw. Start at the skirt, reach left to a sloping hueco and jump right for a rounded hold. Head up and slightly left past a small pocket and an amazing fat pinch until you can reach/throw for the lip. Rock over, enjoy.
Around the middle of the roof, look for the features described above. Shares a start with Cosmic Tricycle.
2-3 pads, spotter highly recommended.
|By Pat Mac|
Jul 5, 2011
rating: V5+ 6C+
This thing is no way V7. And especially if you use the skirt to jump to the right hand edge. *Real* beta is after you touch the hueco your feet have to leave the skirt, or your just cheating yourself.
Aug 11, 2011
Yeah I agree, I would not rate this as a v7 also, and it probably wouldn't be a v6 if used the skirt to get out to the crimp. My personal philosophy for this route, and I'm not implying I'm right, is to not use the skirt at all. I keep my feet just above the flat part of the rock (where there are still plenty of good feet) for the first move and then use the good foot to the left on the roof to move out to the crimp. I think it makes more sense not to use the skirt at all, rather than using it for the beginning, and not for the next part.
|By Andrew Ryder|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 12, 2011
Updated the grade to V6, which I also feel is appropriate. Given V7 in the e-guide.
Personally I like to do this problem without the skirt. Start matched in the first hueco, bring your feet up to the roof and go from there.