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Exceptional, and popular. Start at the skirt and reach left to a sloping hueco. Jump to a round hold, then climb the headwall past a loaf and the puffer fish hold. Rock over and enjoy.
Near the middle of the roof. Shares a start with Cosmic Tricycle.
2-3 pads, spotter highly recommended.
By Pat Mac
Jul 5, 2011
rating: V5+ 6C+
This thing is no way V7. And especially if you use the skirt to jump to the right hand edge. *Real* beta is after you touch the hueco your feet have to leave the skirt, or your just cheating yourself.
Aug 11, 2011
Yeah I agree, I would not rate this as a v7 also, and it probably wouldn't be a v6 if used the skirt to get out to the crimp. My personal philosophy for this route, and I'm not implying I'm right, is to not use the skirt at all. I keep my feet just above the flat part of the rock (where there are still plenty of good feet) for the first move and then use the good foot to the left on the roof to move out to the crimp. I think it makes more sense not to use the skirt at all, rather than using it for the beginning, and not for the next part.