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Pudgy Gumbies 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Merrill Bitter, John Higgens, 1983
Season: climb faces north
Page Views: 1,914
Submitted By: bheller on Aug 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Klophaus cruxing on Pudgy Gumbies. The perspective...

Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A lesson in offset balance! One of my favorite LCC cracks.

This is a great natural climb that links up a series of left-leaning cracks. Follow the narrow left trending lieback ramp for the first 35 feet until the awesome jamming begins. The climb has always seemed a little dirty and the lichen can stay moist after a rain- it is not often it is climbed. It is fully worthy of your time. Treat it as a little destination route.

The narrow left trending lieback ramp is very balancey and it can be quite hard to blindly fiddle in solid small gear here. Micro nuts work, and Purple C3s and 00 and 0 metolius mastercams work, but nothing really feels super confidence inspiring. Once you gain the upper-half you can relax with straight forward gear placements.

I'd suggest a cush cam rack of triples from purple C3 to big fingers(.5 camalot/ orange metolius), and then doubles to a #1 camalot size. Most of the finger sized pieces will be used on the second half of the climb. Bring a usual number of draws and slings.

An improved belay stance now exists with some cord and equalized fixed gear.

This route is difficult and possibly a touch dangerous to attempt to clean while lowering/rappelling so you should just have your second clean it on toprope.

Protection 

  • Micro nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Purple TCU
  • Doubles from blue TCU until red #1 Camalot.
  • Many runners/draws
  • 60 meter rope gets you up and down.

Quickclips and anchor bolts installed Sept 28th, 2008.

Location 

Approach by climbing Endless Torment, and then execute some 3rd class dirt scrambling up ramps to the right, and then back left for about 100 vertical feet.

Alternatively you can climb the first couple of pitches up to the nice ledge below the final Pentapitch headwall slab and scramble down and to the east and around some corners (4th class).

There is a nice tree to anchor into for the belay, and you know you are there when you see the left-leaning thin cracks and a pin about 25 feet up.


Photos of Pudgy Gumbies Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at Pudgy Gumbies from the belay. When y...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Pudgy Gumbies from the belay. When y...

Comments on Pudgy Gumbies Add Comment
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By clayhoon
Oct 29, 2007

KILLER!! did this earlier this year.. felt really hard onsite.. cleaned some loose blocks out of the crack also.. really interesting crack!! *****
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Aug 31, 2009

an alternate approach that skirts the dirt scramble is climbing Japanese terraces then rappeling over the route to the base off a big belay tree below the final pitch of J terraces. this eliminates the potentail of kicking down rocks during your scramble. locate either the large tree at the base of the route of the fixed nut/piton anchor on a boulder 50 feet below the route.
By Tim Wolfe
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 22, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Sweet line. Hard onsite since the moves are so tenuous while placing the gear. My buddy Phil Meck got the gear in and we did laps. Wish it got more traffic to clean up a bit.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 8, 2012

That bottom section worked me. I fell on every piece I placed until I got to the handcrack. Bring your small gear for sure and stem and lieback your way up the tenuous dihedral. Once you hit the handcrack it is awesome! A no hands rests follows on small ledge before embarking on the last crux fingers section to a huge jug block and one last tcu lieback crack. Will have to work this one a bit.
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