This is a great natural climb that links up a series of left-leaning cracks. The climb is a little dirty, but just needs more traffic. It is fully worthy of your time.
This route is nearly impossible to clean while lowering/rappelling so you must have a second clean it on toprope.
- Doubles from blue TCU until red #1 Camalot.
- 60 meter rope gets you up and down.
Quickclips and anchor bolts installed Sept 28th, 2008.
Approach by climbing Endless Torment, and then execute some 3rd class dirt scrambling up ramps to the right, and then back left for about 100 vertical feet.
Alternatively you can climb the first couple of pitches up to the nice ledge below the final Pentapitch headwall slab and scramble down and to the east and around some corners (4th class).
There is a nice tree to anchor into for the belay, and you know you are there when you see the left-leaning thin cracks and a pin about 25 feet up.
Klophaus cruxing on Pudgy Gumbies. The perspective...
Oct 29, 2007
KILLER!! did this earlier this year.. felt really hard onsite.. cleaned some loose blocks out of the crack also.. really interesting crack!! *****
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 31, 2009
an alternate approach that skirts the dirt scramble is climbing Japanese terraces then rappeling over the route to the base off a big belay tree below the final pitch of J terraces. this eliminates the potentail of kicking down rocks during your scramble. locate either the large tree at the base of the route of the fixed nut/piton anchor on a boulder 50 feet below the route.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 22, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet line. Hard onsite since the moves are so tenuous while placing the gear. My buddy Phil Meck got the gear in and we did laps. Wish it got more traffic to clean up a bit.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 8, 2012
That bottom section worked me. I fell on every piece I placed until I got to the handcrack. Bring your small gear for sure and stem and lieback your way up the tenuous dihedral. Once you hit the handcrack it is awesome! A no hands rests follows on small ledge before embarking on the last crux fingers section to a huge jug block and one last tcu lieback crack. Will have to work this one a bit.