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The Melting Mud Wall
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Public Nuisance S 
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Public Nuisance 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Greg Martinez, Tyler Phillips
Page Views: 1,504
Submitted By: tenesmus on May 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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  • Description 

    Sustained edge and pocket pulling. Much easier once you find the good pockets but still there in your face. I really like this one because its nice and sustained.


    Location 

    Right of the shallow dihedral for Melting Into Madness


    Protection 

    11 draws plus two for the anchors.



    Photos of Public Nuisance Slideshow Add Photo
    Starting up Public Nuisance.
    Starting up Public Nuisance.
    Ex post cruxo...
    Ex post cruxo...
    The routes are very close together in this area
    BETA PHOTO: The routes are very close together in this area
    Comments on Public Nuisance Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg Martinez
    From: SLC UTAH
    Sep 4, 2007
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    11 bolts & anchors

    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Jul 17, 2009
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    All the moves are easier than on the 11b to the right but it's more sustained. Dynamic moves at the start then a really cool crux sequence followed by a whole lot of keeping-it-together climbing.
    Best on Melting Mud?

    By Ryan Stott
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Aug 14, 2010
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

    Boisall said it well. This was more sustained than the 11.b that shares the same anchor. What I like most about this climb is that it has a good mix of tiny pockets, crimps, and lie backs.

    Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites.

    By Ryan Stott
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jul 21, 2011
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

    Did this climb again today. I was hoping this whole area would clean up more this year, but it seems way chossier this year than last. I broke off one of the big flakes near the top. Luckily, it is close to another solid flake, and it shouldn't change the grade, but don't stand below climbers on this wall.

    By Alex Quitiquit
    From: Salt Lake City
    Oct 2, 2011
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Not loose or chossy... really fun route with two good sporty cruxes requiring some cool footwork. Pretty sustained. Shares anchors with Doner. Super fun and definitely would recommend for those climbing in the upper .11 grade.

    By BobGray
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    May 15, 2012
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Having bolted with Greg for years now I wouldn't consider anything he puts up as PG13, he's one of the safest router developers I've climbed with.

    By Grant Burton
    From: Holladay, UT
    Jul 15, 2014

    Great pump, I had to really work for this onsight. came very close to blowing it in the upper section. Keep your eyes on the foot work and the crimps will present themselves. Definitely not PG13, if the bolts were any closer I would struggle to avoid z clipping. 5.11