Public Hanging 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Chris Miller, July 2002 |
| Season: | Spring - Fall |
| Submitted By: | Euan Cameron on May 21, 2007 |
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Public Hanging (5.11c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
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Description This climbs directly up to and over the small roof just right of Coyotes in the Henhouse.
Climb past 3 bolts to the roof. Continue up to the crux - a blind clip of the 4th bolt. After the bolt is clipped (easier directly below) a slight downclimb and move right allows you to use an undercut to reach for the big hold on the lip.
Make a long reach, or jump for the good flake up and right. With the flake at hand and your feet above the overhang, clip the 5th bolt and fire up on small crimps. The small holds soon give way to better holds.
A good route that's marred by a difficult 4th clip.
Location Located on the right side of the wall.
Protection 7 bolts, chain anchors
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
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Hobbs scouting out the roof on Public Hanging.
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| Comments on Public Hanging |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 12, 2007
rating: 5.11c
| Orignally done without the 5th bolt, which was added later to prevent hitting the slab below.
Sort of an odd route in that it's mostly moderate with a thin, bouldery crux over the roof. Some beta - at the 4th bolt shorter climbers can go slightly right under the roof to work underclings/edges which makes clipping the bolt easier. The bolt may a bit high, but it protects the crux and keeps you off the slab. |
By Wes Goulding
From: Granada Hills, CA
Sep 5, 2010
| Thoughtful moves lead up to the 4th bolt. I clipped from the crimps at the lip of the roof, while standing on the slab(nothing). If my foot slipped I probably would have hit the ground with an arm full of slack. Make sure you have your game face on when you do this route.
I thought the posted grade was accurate, but I am weak & old.
Wes |
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