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Claim Jumper Wall
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Public Hanging S 

Public Hanging 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Miller, July 2002
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 1,655
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on May 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Hobbs scouting out the roof on Public Hanging.

Description 

This climbs directly up to and over the small roof just right of Coyotes in the Henhouse.

Climb past 3 bolts to the roof. Continue up to the crux - a blind clip of the 4th bolt. After the bolt is clipped (easier directly below) a slight downclimb and move right allows you to use an undercut to reach for the big hold on the lip.

Make a long reach, or jump for the good flake up and right. With the flake at hand and your feet above the overhang, clip the 5th bolt and fire up on small crimps. The small holds soon give way to better holds.

A good route that's marred by a difficult 4th clip.

Location 

Located on the right side of the wall.

Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Public Hanging Slideshow Add Photo
Public Hanging (5.11c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Public Hanging (5.11c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
DTAS about to get hung.
DTAS about to get hung.

Comments on Public Hanging Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 12, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Orignally done without the 5th bolt, which was added later to prevent hitting the slab below.

Sort of an odd route in that it's mostly moderate with a thin, bouldery crux over the roof. Some beta - at the 4th bolt shorter climbers can go slightly right under the roof to work underclings/edges which makes clipping the bolt easier. The bolt may a bit high, but it protects the crux and keeps you off the slab.
By Wes Goulding
Sep 5, 2010

Thoughtful moves lead up to the 4th bolt. I clipped from the crimps at the lip of the roof, while standing on the slab(nothing). If my foot slipped I probably would have hit the ground with an arm full of slack. Make sure you have your game face on when you do this route.

I thought the posted grade was accurate, but I am weak & old.

Wes
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 10, 2013

Bold lead. Kudos for those who lead this! The grade felt true to the area (.11d), but I didn't lead it so I wouldn't rate it per se. Probably easier if you're tall (I'm 5'8")
By Nick Tunnicliffe
Aug 16, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Crux is hanging the 4th draw. Other than that I felt it was soft. Basically can't fall hanging the 4th draw or it will not be good. Fun moves after the roof on smaller crimps and a close 5th bolt to help prevent hitting the slab below.
By Phil Esra
May 4, 2014

27 votes on this route? Huh. Lots of chalk up to the roof, but not a speck after that.
By Coon
May 16, 2014

^^ haha completely agree with Phil. This would normally be beyond me so I gave it some goes on TR. Going right did not work for me at all. Straight up to the sidepull flake was how I got passed the roof. The biggest challenge IMO was that theres no feet under the roof.
By Brian Chastain
Sep 29, 2014

I followed this and my buddy skipped the fourth bolt until after gaining the big flake above the roof. I found a good knee bar making the 4th bolt clip no big deal as I was able to clean the draw pretty easily.