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PTSD with the original bolts drawn in. Since this...
PTSD...post traumatic stress disorder or something else? Hmmm.
This was a decent, heavily bolted line with a line that felt contrived for the bulk of the first pitch, but it makes up for it with its short second pitch.
According to Lew Strong
, "the overbolting was due to some scary lead bolting. The plan is to sort the bolts out a bit at some point."
Start in a little alcove. The more you try to stay on the face, the more difficult the first pitch will be. At times, it feels like you may not find a way to avoid the groove on the right at less than a 5.11 grade. At least you will never feel runout on this climb; however, you may develop a guilt trip. After about two-third's the way up the first pitch, you will swing right onto the arete and right face. There are interestingly 4 bolts from which you can anchor. The belay to the right with feet on a ledge will feel more comfy.
For pitch two, you will no longer be able to scum off the right groove. You must climb the arete. The difficulty is less. There is a funky second bolt mid-pitch. You may find a friable feldspar flake in here. A bit of breeze will make this pitch more memorable. Unfortunately, the pitch ends far before you would like. Addendum: P1 has been rebolted, the holes patched, and it no longer resembles the initial effort. The change is that p1 cuts left up the center of the slab and has several 10a spots in the upper third. It is 95 feet and 10 bolts. At the top of the flake there are two options for P2: 1. continue straight up 50 more feet with 5 bolts at 10c. 2. step right to the anchors, turn the corner and climb the right edge of the arete at 5.9 with 5 bolts. The two options share the same anchors.
Rap ~60 feet, then rap again ~95'.
P1. 10 bolts. P2. 5 bolts.
One of the authors, Andy Howard, going straight up...
By Kevin Presley
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PTSD started kind of weird, but the climbing is quite enjoyable and the difficulty is a little more sustained. I was surprised to feel a little exposure on the "second pitch". Well bolted, varied climbing. No need to stop at the anchors, bring a few extendable draws to reduce rope drag when you turn the corner, then blast to the top.
By Red John
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Climbed this route following obvious weaknesses, right of bolts at first, then transitioned to the left at the midway bushes in a crack feature before a bulge. Ended up at an arete rap station, then headed back left to the direct face. (Fins of rock on right down on lower portion didn't seem loose, maybe been cleaned over time?)
Went up direct face to top after the bulge (as opposed to turning out right to do arete/face), done as single pitch on 70 meter rope. No rope drag to speak of going straight up. Rapped back down with scant rope to spare.
Beautiful piece of rock! Upper portion was thought provoking.