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P1: Climb the first pitch of Pornographic Motions
to a large ledge and belay at the big pine tree. 5.10, small gear, one bolt, 130 feet.
P2: Surmount the overlap at the base of the face (small cam), and work up and right through slightly crumbly and surprisingly steep slab climbing to a bolted belay atop a huge, thin flake. THere is challenging climbing with a 20+ foot runout on “easy” 5.10 terrain between the last two bolts. Ken Trout gives this pitch a dubious 10d rating, but the recent iteration of Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Colorado
called the crux of this pitch 11b...I'm with Mr. Green. 5.10+/11- R, 5 bolts, 100 feet.
P3: Follow 6 bolts through reportedly sustained 5.11 and 5.12 face climbing to a two bolt anchor. It doesn't look bad from below, but, then again, the second pitch didn't either. 5.12a, 6 bolts, 70 feet. Runouts through 5.11 territory indicated on Trout's topo.
Rappel the route with two ropes -- P2 and P3 can be rapped with a 60m, but P1 requires two ropes.
Begin on P1 of Pornographic Motions
, a discontinuous finger crack system on the far right side of the east face of The Dome. Alternately, this climb can be approached by eschewing the traditional approach trail for a bushwhacking adventure that terminates beneath P2. From there, look up, say “doesn't look so bad...I'll rock paper scissors you for it!”, sack up, and lead on!
Quickdraws and a light rack will get you to the top. A clear head is encouraged for dealing with runouts and crumbling credit card edges.