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PTL Club 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Apr 2, 2011
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Description 

P1: Climb the first pitch of Pornographic Motions to a large ledge and belay at the big pine tree. 5.10, small gear, one bolt, 130 feet.

P2: Surmount the overlap at the base of the face (small cam), and work up and right through slightly crumbly and surprisingly steep slab climbing to a bolted belay atop a huge, thin flake. THere is challenging climbing with a 20+ foot runout on “easy” 5.10 terrain between the last two bolts. Ken Trout gives this pitch a dubious 10d rating, but the recent iteration of Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Colorado called the crux of this pitch 11b...I'm with Mr. Green. 5.10+/11- R, 5 bolts, 100 feet.

P3: Follow 6 bolts through reportedly sustained 5.11 and 5.12 face climbing to a two bolt anchor. It doesn't look bad from below, but, then again, the second pitch didn't either. 5.12a, 6 bolts, 70 feet. Runouts through 5.11 territory indicated on Trout's topo.

Rappel the route with two ropes -- P2 and P3 can be rapped with a 60m, but P1 requires two ropes.


Location 

Begin on P1 of Pornographic Motions, a discontinuous finger crack system on the far right side of the east face of The Dome. Alternately, this climb can be approached by eschewing the traditional approach trail for a bushwhacking adventure that terminates beneath P2. From there, look up, say “doesn't look so bad...I'll rock paper scissors you for it!”, sack up, and lead on!


Protection 

Quickdraws and a light rack will get you to the top. A clear head is encouraged for dealing with runouts and crumbling credit card edges.



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