Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 978 total · 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Apr 2, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

P1: Climb the first pitch of Pornographic Motions to a large ledge and belay at the big pine tree. 5.10, small gear, one bolt, 130 feet.

P2: Surmount the overlap at the base of the face (small cam), and work up and right through slightly crumbly and surprisingly steep slab climbing to a bolted belay atop a huge, thin flake. THere is challenging climbing with a 20+ foot runout on “easy” 5.10 terrain between the last two bolts. Ken Trout gives this pitch a dubious 10d rating, but the recent iteration of Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Colorado called the crux of this pitch 11b...I'm with Mr. Green. 5.10+/11- R, 5 bolts, 100 feet.

P3: Follow 6 bolts through reportedly sustained 5.11 and 5.12 face climbing to a two bolt anchor. It doesn't look bad from below, but, then again, the second pitch didn't either. 5.12a, 6 bolts, 70 feet. Runouts through 5.11 territory indicated on Trout's topo.

Rappel the route with two ropes -- P2 and P3 can be rapped with a 60m, but P1 requires two ropes.

Location Suggest change

Begin on P1 of Pornographic Motions, a discontinuous finger crack system on the far right side of the east face of The Dome. Alternately, this climb can be approached by eschewing the traditional approach trail for a bushwhacking adventure that terminates beneath P2. From there, look up, say “doesn't look so bad...I'll rock paper scissors you for it!”, sack up, and lead on!

Protection Suggest change

Quickdraws and a light rack will get you to the top. A clear head is encouraged for dealing with runouts and crumbling credit card edges.

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