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 ADVANCED
4. The Dream Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete, The T 
Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter T 
Psychotic Realization T,S 
Ten Years Later T 
Unsorted Routes:

Psychotic Realization 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: FFA Jon Sykes and Fletcher Wyman
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: Eric8 on Jun 24, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Climbs the "scope" just right of the tre...

Description 

This climb centers around a cryptic and engaging boulder problem out a clean scope of rock.

P1-Climb easy cracks to the large ledge that splits the dream wall. Tree and rap/belay station here. Same as Ten Years later.

P2. Climb easily (5.6ish) up and left to a high first bolt, can get small gear before. Work left and then back right to a good edge and a somewhat challenging clip (easy with the draw on). Boulder out the technical crux sequence (v4/5) and get established under the roof. There is one none trivial pull to get over the roof but you can get good gear before. Once over the roof it is an easy romp to the anchors.

Location 

Between route with a view and ten years later.

Protection 

Gear to 1 inch


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