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N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Crowders Mountain
> Main Climbing A…
> 04. David's Castle Wall
Psychotic Reaction
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in 04. David's Castle Wall
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Between the Betwix S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Castle Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Caterpillar T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chim-Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Electra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Energy Czar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fourplay T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Golden Overhang T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Golden Shower T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Handle With Care T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Instant Karma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Instant Karma Direct S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pink Flamingo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Psychotic Reaction T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rediscovery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rocky's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sadistic Rhythm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Temporary Tradition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Two Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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What Else Is There To Do? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | Wes Love, Doug Reed |
| Page Views: | 1,442 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 17, 2011 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Start cliff left of the two sport routes in the crack system that leads to the roof.
Wes Love and Doug Reed were ballers and I've learned that they were pretty tall. I can usually onsight most 5.10's but I've been shut down on their 5.9+ routes (Sadistic Rhythm). Due to height and reach difference(but probably mostly because they were ballers) most of their routes I have to upgrade. This route is no exception.
After struggling for about twenty minutes to try and get the onsight. I fell. The gear is subtle, creative, not straight forward. The rock quality is mostly good but the cobwebs are evidence of this route not being frequented often.
I was informed by my belayer that he believed the route connected to Two Step at the roof. Examining the topo, it does seem to connect but I'm talking to Wes Love to find out if they went Direct like I attempted and later finished (not ground up yet, next time) or if the topo is correct.
Regardless, jump on this route on top rope by using a directional on the anchor for Two Step and Between The Betwix.
Wes Love and Doug Reed were ballers and I've learned that they were pretty tall. I can usually onsight most 5.10's but I've been shut down on their 5.9+ routes (Sadistic Rhythm). Due to height and reach difference(but probably mostly because they were ballers) most of their routes I have to upgrade. This route is no exception.
After struggling for about twenty minutes to try and get the onsight. I fell. The gear is subtle, creative, not straight forward. The rock quality is mostly good but the cobwebs are evidence of this route not being frequented often.
I was informed by my belayer that he believed the route connected to Two Step at the roof. Examining the topo, it does seem to connect but I'm talking to Wes Love to find out if they went Direct like I attempted and later finished (not ground up yet, next time) or if the topo is correct.
Regardless, jump on this route on top rope by using a directional on the anchor for Two Step and Between The Betwix.
- ***Great end of your day burn. On top rope, climb Psychotic Reaction, Two Step, and Between The Betwix back to back. I almost did it clean. Have fun!****
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