This route is awesome! Probably one of the top four routes in the corridor if you can climb at this grade. Climb the easy holds up to the third bolts and then crimp your way to a great left handed undercling. This will require smearing you feet on the way up. There is a two finger pocket for your right hand, followed by a few more crimps as you move upward. The top section to the anchors is relatively easy climbing after the crux.
This line was bolted after Roxanna's new guide was published, so it is not included in her topo. It is the fourth route on the right as you enter the corridor from the lower approach, and follows the obvious thin crack to a huge undercling flake.
Seven bolts to the new chain anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of the 5.11c at by the en...
BETA PHOTO: The route up the center of the photo; no...
Drew on the send
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 7, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
be mindful of the bad rock out left above the undercling at mid-height. going left and you risk causing rockfall (it happened twice today) on parties below. go straight up, despite the tough look of it, its not too bad.
|By Christine Gal|
From: lake forest, il
Mar 8, 2009
wear your helmets belaying this one. a fairly big piece came off yesterday
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 28, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just before the crux is (was) a good sidepull/gaston (depending on how you use it) that I completely tore off and nearly hit my belayer. I put a large "X" on the flaky thing and the rest of the hold will certainly pull sooner or later. Be careful. Bad ass crux moves!
|By Edward Pyune|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 10, 2013
This climb deserves more stars. I don't want to give away beta (although my beta sometimes sucks :P), but the crux move was awesome and a rarity for sport climbing (at least what I have climbed at RR). Definitely doing it again
|By Daniel Nelson|
From: Jackson, WY
May 26, 2014
Very crimpy/smeary crux - unsure if something has broken off or maybe my sequencing was poor, but crux felt really hard compared to other 11a in the area. Climbing before and after was fun/easy.