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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Gem, The 
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Psycho 
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Wasabe 
Wisdom, The 

Psycho 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steve Wunsch
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Bolts, 4 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,657
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Apr 8, 2001
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The old P1 pin. TCU and RPs can be used instead.
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  • Description 

    The entire route including the rarely done. The roof is a historic classic.

    The first pitch is about two stars and is a good quick roof route. Begin this route up and left of Fire and Ice (the route just left of Guenese). Look for a bolt just left of a shallow, rounded, right-facing dihedral. This bolt is twenty feet off the ground and requires 5.8 climbing to get to it, hence the s rating. After the bolt, decipher a very funky, Eldoesque crux (crux for shorter people, easier for taller people) and climb up to a decent pin. Climb above the pin to an ok bolt and traverse straight right to a two bolt belay .10.

    The second pitch (which I onsight soloed;) continues over the roof on .12+ climbing.


    Protection 

    A bolt, a pin, then a bolt.



    Photos of Psycho Slideshow Add Photo
    Jeff Gruenberg on the Psycho roof. <br />Late '80s.
    Jeff Gruenberg on the Psycho roof.
    Late '80s.
    Jerry Moffat on repeat ascent of  Psycho Roof's new, harder, Jim Collin's version. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
    Jerry Moffat on repeat ascent of Psycho Roof's ne...
    Lisa Apprill P1 dialing in the gear where the old manky pin used to be.
    Lisa Apprill P1 dialing in the gear where the old ...
    Finishing the traverse.
    Finishing the traverse.
    At the second bolt on P1 at the start of the traverse.
    At the second bolt on P1 at the start of the trave...
    Lisa Apprill getting small gear in where the pin used to be.
    Lisa Apprill getting small gear in where the pin u...
    First Ascent:  Layton Kor & Huntly Ingalls, 1962.  Steve Wunsch freed the roof, 1975.  <br /> <br />Psycho is way more than one pitch!  Just aid the roof to get to the wild 5.8+R traverse of pitch two (long yellow dashes in the photo).  The final concern is the bolt protected 5.9 slab guarding access to the Upper Ramp, (not in picture).
    BETA PHOTO: First Ascent: Layton Kor & Huntly Ingalls, 1962. ...
    Comments on Psycho Add Comment
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    By Patrick Vernon
    Jan 1, 2001

    Did the left hand variation of this first pitch today known as wasabe. The roof on this is .12c (another onsight free solo for me;) however if you stop before the roof and traverse up and left to evangaline you have a nice .11b sporty route. This pitch is cool and sustained two star climbing. The second clip is a little peppery (spicy) as well as the first clip. This variation breaks left from the first bolt on psycho.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    Esc. - I forgot to mention what you do with your left foot once it comes off the wall. After you hook your right heel into the v-slot, bring your left foot under and a little out from your right foot, onto a small edge using the outside part of the foot. This is actually crucial in stabilizing your body for the remainder of the moves. The Psycho roof is really like aerial bouldering. It takes vise-grip strength in your right hand and some pretty strong abs!

    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    Escalar - Here is a bit of beta on the roof. It is definitely hard 5.12. With the bolts so nearby, it can feel like a scary boulder problem (V5 or V6?). If you have ever seen the video "On the Rocks" from way back in the eighties, you will see Jerry Moffat on the roof (although they don actually show him finishing it). His method is not the way to do it, in my opinion. Once established under the roof, you will be underclinging a flake with both hands. Adjust your feet up high and reach way up and right (above the most obvious set of holds) to a small pinch. Next, lift your right foot up (both feet come off the wall) to the obvious set of holds below your right hand, and hook your heel in a small v-slot. The crux is next and invloves getting your left hand next to your right foot and hooking your thumb around the slot where your right foot is. Your right foot will come off the hold and then extend like mad for the lip which is a huge jug. Toe hook on the lip, (if you get it good it is super solid), and then reach to the lip with your right hand. This hold is so big that you can just about fly off and still manage to pull over the roof. Now for the scary part. Traverse back left along the lip of the roof and into the dihedral, then up to the anchors. Ive only gone to the anchors once. I prefer to just jump off the lip and not deal with frightening moves above the roof. Besides, there is really no reasonable way to second (free) such a big overhang. It is no harder to lead everything from the ground, but it is nice to have your belayer up under the roof with you for moral support. With all the great boulderers out there, it is surprising that this classic roof isn't done more often.

    By Nate Weitzel
    Mar 27, 2002

    The roof pitch of Psycho is an excellent boulder problem, way up in the air. Worked through the moves today, and pretty much agree with the above beta, just some little differences with the feet. Definitely right hand intensive. It sure feels nice to hit that final jug at the lip after all of the body tension moves to get there!!! This is really a fantastic line and it is interesting that more people don't do it, although with how loose the flakes up there are, more traffic will result in a much harder route very soon.

    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Apr 7, 2003

    This weekend I studied a home movie of Mark Tarrant and Darius Azin working the roof shortly after Steve Wunsch's FFA in 1975. Their beta agrees almost to the letter with AC's description except that it would appear that you can stack well up in the undercling with the feet still pasted on the vertical wall before launching the right hand. Mark's red point may have been the second complete ascent (??) inasmuch as he finished the Psycho slab above as well. The sequence looks positively terrific.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Feb 4, 2004

    Are the bolts any good on the roof pitch? They look old and manky from the top of the first.

    By Henry Lester
    Apr 14, 2009

    The pin, which is the second piece of fixed gear, is a little loose.

    By Scott Bennett
    Nov 17, 2009

    The pin on P1, which was very suspect, is no longer there. We removed it today. A small TCU goes well in the pinscar.
    -Scott