This is the route worth coming to this area for. Start at the right end of an overhanging face with a gray bottom and orange top. Climb up and traverse left past the first bolt. From here, trend up and left to reach the overhang at the 2nd right facing dihedral from the right. There's a rest at every bolt to the overhang. Pull the overhang aiming for the base of the upper orange left leaning dihedral (crux). Gain a stance and make a thin move, then its good holds to the finish.
This route is very obvious. From the approach trail, either head to the cliff immediately and walk left for about 30 yards or just continue on the trail around a large boulder and this route will appear in front of you.
7 bolts and shuts at the top. The first bolt needs a draw, everything else has a permadraw on it.
|By Dan Brayack|
From: Marmet, WV
Feb 10, 2011
Best one up there in my opinion
|By Chris Whisenhunt|
From: Fayetteville, WV
Apr 17, 2014
There are TWO no hand rests on this thing. The first one is right at the second bolt. You can jam your right leg in the huge horizontal and lay back. The second one is right at the fourth? bolt after the traverse. Clip the bolt and then look to the left about a foot or two over. You can get a double knee-bar. Boom, now this climb is 5.11b.
Adding to this.
A friend of mine was able to completely LAY DOWN where I got the knee bar. 5.10d