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Cotton Top
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Psycho Wrangler 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kenny Parker, 2005
Page Views: 3,304
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on May 10, 2010

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Dana Steck, trying to hold it together as she head...

Description 

This is the route worth coming to this area for. Start at the right end of an overhanging face with a gray bottom and orange top. Climb up and traverse left past the first bolt. From here, trend up and left to reach the overhang at the 2nd right facing dihedral from the right. There's a rest at every bolt to the overhang. Pull the overhang aiming for the base of the upper orange left leaning dihedral (crux). Gain a stance and make a thin move, then its good holds to the finish.

Location 

This route is very obvious. From the approach trail, either head to the cliff immediately and walk left for about 30 yards or just continue on the trail around a large boulder and this route will appear in front of you.

Protection 

7 bolts and shuts at the top. The first bolt needs a draw, everything else has a permadraw on it.


Photos of Psycho Wrangler Slideshow Add Photo
A. Baldwin on Psycho Wrangler
A. Baldwin on Psycho Wrangler
Onsighting psycho wrangler. Pulling the last roof before the crux.
Onsighting psycho wrangler. Pulling the last roof ...
Jeremy Steck on Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a.
Jeremy Steck on Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a.
<ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>****</li></ul>
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Chris on his onsight attempt of Psycho Wrangler.
Chris on his onsight attempt of Psycho Wrangler.
Lynn hill need I say more, she walked up it
Lynn hill need I say more, she walked up it

Comments on Psycho Wrangler Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Feb 10, 2011

Best one up there in my opinion
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Apr 17, 2014

There are TWO no hand rests on this thing. The first one is right at the second bolt. You can jam your right leg in the huge horizontal and lay back. The second one is right at the fourth? bolt after the traverse. Clip the bolt and then look to the left about a foot or two over. You can get a double knee-bar. Boom, now this climb is 5.11b.

Adding to this.

A friend of mine was able to completely LAY DOWN where I got the knee bar. 5.10d