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Psycho Sexy 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Shadow Ayala
New Route: Yes
Season: 
Page Views: 1,155
Submitted By: shadow.ayala on Jul 8, 2010
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a nice long pitch.

Description 

There are two roofs and a steep ending on this beast. Get to the first roof without falling on the tricky opening and crank your way through jugs to a huge broken sloper move. Pull over onto the face and face the music. Make an 'in your face' clip and recover, you have a long way to go. Ditch one crack after another until you reach the second roof. This section is unreal fun. Get jiggy with the crack and make a blind move to another juggy sloper. Flag your way around "the point" and onto the amazingly exposed face. Classic edgy face climbing leads you to a tricky crack swapping section. When things blank out near the top, get ready for the finale. Perfect little edges through a gently overhanging face amazes you as you float over the last steep section and into one last surprise. Dont fall at the top! One of the best on the wall.


Location 

right of 'Flame Thrower'.


Protection 

16 bolts, two are fixed.
fixe chain anchor.
-there is now a mid anchor below the second roof, so it is easy to clean and can be climbed with one rope.



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By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 9, 2010

Despite the rad bro-brahness oozing from Dr. Ayala's route description, do not be fooled. This route is way cooler than any So-Cal boulderer's tribal armband tattoo. Send this rig and you get a gold star!

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 13, 2010

I'm sorry, but I have to point out how exceptionally trenchant, and unabashedly funny Vic's comments are regarding the SoCal bouldering population. Word.

I know this information is completely unnecessary, so whoever administers this site can feel free to delete my comment. My feelings won't be hurt.