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Psycho Physics 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bill Duncan, Steve Stubblefield, Pat Peddy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 747
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Aug 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

This route begins behind the huge flake that is leaning against the Bishop's left-hand side, to the left of the Bishop finger crack.

Start by climbing on to a large boulder wedged behind the flake, and then straight up the classic stemming chimney, clipping 3 bolts along the way. There is a small foot ledge on the flake that allows you to climb out to either side of the cap rock. A few easier face moves brings you to a nice ledge with 3 bombproof anchors. 5.9-R.

Next, climb out left to the arete (crux) and then pull right of a small roof to gain the south face of the Bishop. Wild exposure, excellent rock. The crux and the roof are well protected. Climb up the face to good belay anchors. 5.11+ crux, followed by sustained 5.10 face moves.
The top of the chimney is visible under the caprock.  The north exit ledge is visible.
The top of the chimney is visible under the caprock. The north exit ledge is visible.


Location 

Walk into the chimney to the left of the Bishop's Finger Crack, and look up.

Protection 

Quickdraws and a couple of cams up to about #3 may come in handy.


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By Patrick Peddy
From: evergreen,co
Sep 28, 2006

Wow Bill, super classic but never actually been able to do the crux. Me thinks you're sandbaggin' again.
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
May 8, 2008

You may be right Pat, this was Steve's opinion, and I perhaps spent too much time on that ledge to have an objective view. My rating was PDH. I seem to recall sliming that move more often than getting it clean. But it is a boulder problem . . . .
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Nov 17, 2009

I tried this thing with Pat some years ago. The "boulder problem" start was much harder than 11B--never got it. Rest of the route was pretty good, then a little run out at the top.